Back at Riverside Drive Marina in Whangarei, our home away from home. Thanks to the Coast Guard folks for their assistance into Marsden 2 days ago, to Dave Berg for recommending that we become NZ Coast Guard members, and to Art for being able to repair transmissions!

Made an overnight run from Opua to Whangarei, but Hatea River Bridge closings and a transmission issue caused us to stop at Marsden Cove.

Moved to the Bay of Islands Marina so we could get some shore chores done. Post-passage fatigue when writing the last post made me neglect to mention that overall our passage from New Cal was very good, and we are happy to be back in NZ!

Cleared Customs in Opua and are now anchored across from the Bay of Islands Marina. We'll stay in this area for a few days to rest and renew acquaintances, then make our way down the coast to Whangarei.

An uneventful day; with conditions improving, we are making steady progress toward Opua and expect to make landfall tomorrow. It's been gray for 5 days

This morning's adventures included a large wave tossing a cascade down the companionway at the precise moment I had the hatch open to tether myself in; jury-rigging a fix for a broken reefing line; and finding clever solutions for the malfunctioning head. Just another day at sea! A good one, actually: making our two short-term goals of not arriving below 32S before the strongest part of the front passes ahead of us, and keeping the boat from bashing too much. We set sail yesterday afternoon, once the winds turned more northerly, and are making reasonable progress along the rhumb line to Opua.

We made great progress overnight but it looked like we were going to get within a couple degrees of NZ at the same time that area was getting the worst of the front, so we decided to heave to. Second Wind is glad to no longer be a submarine, and her crew is catching up on needed rest.

We're part of the New Cal group that's "parked" along the edge of the squash zone, hoping to avoid getting into the worst of the winds and squalls ahead. Wallowing in large seas has its moments; too bad we didn't get a video of Art chasing a hard boiled egg around the salon floor! (At least it was hard boiled.) Definitely looking forward to this system passing so we can get moving again.

We're part of the New Cal group that's "parked" along the edge of the squash zone, hoping to avoid getting into the worst of the winds and squalls ahead. Wallowing in large seas has its moments; too bad we didn't get a video of Art chasing a hard boiled egg around the salon floor! (At least it was hard boiled.) Definitely looking forward to this system passing so we can get moving again.

Motorsailing overnight brought us to the winds we wanted and we had a great morning run

Southeast wind and waves increased and this morning's gribs showed more favorable winds to the east, so we tacked. A bit of a diversion for now, but we're hoping to resume our course before too long. We've passed through different microsystems, with varying wind speeds and cloud cover, relatively close to each other.

We encountered the light NE at 24 50S and fired up the engine a short while later. Still making good headway and all is well on board. (1600 status update: since the noon report, skies have cleared a great deal, we have light southeasterlies and are sailing at 4k on a course of 170T.)

Bound for New Zealand! Having the best start to any passage ever: light upwind with sunny skies and no large waves to bash into. Who wouldn't want to cross oceans like this?

Had a lovely sail to the Isle of Pines! We're sharing the Kuto Bay anchorage with 12 other sailboats and one of the biggest cruise ships we've ever seen. Planning to enjoy the island while we're waiting for a weather window to depart for NZ.

Anchored at Baie Ire on Ile Ouen, en route to Ile des Pins.

Enjoyed a river walk in the upper reaches of Prony Bay yesterday before heading back to Noumea today. We were lucky to find a spot to anchor at Port Moselle; apparently two rallies are gathering here at the same time, so it's very crowded.

We stayed within Bay of Prony but moved to Ilot Casy in order to rendezvous with Paul & Chris of S/V Georgia. Had great hikes through dense scrub vegetation yesterday and a pine forest today.

A 24-hour passage brought us back to Grande Terre, where we are at a mooring at Anse Majic in Prony Bay. Tomorrow we plan to hike to the lighthouse for a panoramic view of the South Lagoon.

After some delightful snorkeling along the cliffs at Jokin, we sailed to the west side of Lifou Island and are now anchored near Drueulu.

We beat our way from Ouvea to Lifou all day today; we're now anchored near the cliffs in Jokin Bay.

Back at "mainland" Ouvea, in anticipation of predicted strong southeasterlies. This time we're anchored near Lekiny, still with miles of sand and hardly any people.

We took advantage of the unusually calm weather to anchor at an islet on the far northern reef. Swam near large fish and large turtles, and enjoyed the solitude.

A boisterous overnight sail brought us to Ouvea, northernmost of New Cal's Loyalty Islands. The anchorage could not be more peaceful or beautiful: miles of white sand beach, no wind, and no crowds. I think we found Paradise...

Anchored at Ilot Nou, a well-protected basin just outside of Havannah Pass.

Enjoyed a lovely walk around Ilot Ua this morning, then moved on to Ilot Mato. We're a bit more exposed to wind here, but wave protection from the reefs is excellent.

Anchored at Ilot Ua, where we enjoyed snorkeling along a coral dropoff.

On a mooring at Ilot Amedee, near the graceful lighthouse. An ideal location! Water clarity is superb; turtles, remoras and reef sharks are clearly visible around the boat, and snorkeling is outstanding.

On a mooring at Ilot Maitre, our first stop on a month of exploring New Caledonia anchorages. Quite a few boats here-including jet skis and small ferries

Checked in to New Caledonia Customs at 1530 on Friday. We'll stay in Noumea for some R&R and provisioning for a few days, then will head out to explore anchorages.

Pinched & pounded yesterday and rolling more today than desired, but we're making good time and all is well on board. We expect to pass through the Loyalty Islands late this afternoon and hope make the entrance to Havannah Pass by slack tide tomorrow morning.

Departed Port Vila this morning, bound for Noumea.

Oops! Last report should have put us at 17 degrees south, not 16. (Done - GHRadio)

We put up with stronger headwinds moving into Mele Bay this morning so we could hang around Esema Bay yesterday for a jam session with an additional uke and a guy on washboard bass (large plastic tub, thin rope & a stick)

Still in Havannah Harbor; moved around a small point to anchor in Esema Bay for a slight change of scenery. Attending to some maintenance tasks, which feels good.

An overnight sail brought us back to Matapu Bay in Havannah Harbor (Efate Island) exactly 2 months after we stopped here on our way north

Arrived at Lamen Bay on Epi Island this morning. Last time we were here it was just a quick stopover; this time we plan to stay a few days to swim with the local dugong and turtles.

Anchored in the inner basin at Uliveo Island (Maskelyne Island group) yesterday afternoon. Had a delightful day playing in their primary and secondary schools, being treated to kava at the local kava bar, and having lobster from a nearby reef. Tomorrow we plan to visit their giant clam sanctuary.

Anchored at Awei Island, in the Maskelyne Island group on the SE corner of Malekula.

A couple of long tacks upwind brought us to Banam Bay yesterday. Crab Bay was murky but the water here is inviting; we'll snorkel here, as well as see the village's highly regarded custom dancing. We plan to stay at least through their Independence Day celebrations on July 30.

A boisterous sail from Ambrym Island to Malekula Island, where we are anchored at Crab Bay. We were hoping to swim with turtles here, but it's awfully blustery! At least Art caught a lovely mahimahi on the way in, so we'll feast tonight.

Had an overnight trek to the volcano with Good as Gold, Chara and JAMS

Had a great sail to Ambrym, then motored to Ranon anchorage once we were in the lee of the island. We're here for a cultural festival and will be in this area for at least a few days.

Close hauled all day but finally made it to Port Stanley on Malekula Island. Looking forward to a good night's rest, then heading to Ambrym early tomorrow morning.

Were headed to Luganville but diverted to Palikulo Bay when we learned S/V State of Mind was there. Many thanks to Brenda & Rod for Art's birthday feast! (Celebrated with them last year in Neaifu; wonder where we'll all be next year?)

Were headed to Luganville but diverted to Palikula Bay when we learned S/V State of Mind was there. Many thanks to Brenda & Rod for Art's birthday feast! (Celebrated with them last year in Neaifu; wonder where we'll all be next year?)

Anchored in Peterson Bay on Santo. The anchorage is deep & feels exposed, but with better light & some dinghy exploration in advance, we may be able to head through a shallow pass into a more protected location tomorrow. A dinghy river trip is on the agenda for this area.

Left the Banks Islands and arrived at Espiritu Santo after an overnight upwind passage. Anchored at Champagne Beach in Hog Harbor, where the sand is as soft as sifted flour!

Anchored at Waterfall Bay, Vanua Lava. Relatively calm in the anchorage given the conditions offshore. Heard incredible "water music" on Gaua, now looking forward to

An overnight sail brought us to Losalava Bay on Gaua Island, in the Banks group. Windy but secure here, and very remote.

Anchored at Asanvari Bay on Maewo Island. A lovely anchorage, though so far quite wet!

Waterfall Bay was aptly named and very enjoyable. This morning we motored 15nm north on glassy seas to Loltong.

After a magnificent experience watching the land diving, we headed north and are anchored at Waterfall Bay.

An overnight sail brought us to Homo Bay on Pentecost Island. We will play music in the village tomorrow and watch the land diving in nearby Wali on Saturday.

Another gorgeous sail, this time to Epi Island; we are anchored in Lamen Bay.

Had a gorgeous sail to Emae Island, where we are anchored in Sulua Bay.

Anchored in Matapu Bay, in Havannah Harbor on Efate Island. Lovely and calm, with the whole place to ourselves.

On a mooring in Port Vila. Nice to be back! Will be here a few days taking care of business, then head north.

Had a great time in the villages around Port Resolution; now en route to Port Vila.

Now at Tanna Island, enjoying the steam vents and wonderful people. Have traded for pamplemousse, bananas & lemons; lots of green things on board again!

Made landfall at Aneityum exactly 8 days after departure; anchored in Anelghowhat Bay. Had a bit of everything en route, & overall the passage was excellent. It's great to be at a warm island again!

Slow but pleasant sailing today. If we were faster or could sail the rhumb line we'd arrive in the dark tonight, so we're enjoying the lovely ride and looking forward to landfall tomorrow.

First glorious sailing day of this passage, a lively upwind romp. Made us remember it's not all about the destination!

Messy day as a trough passes. Strong squalls, motorsailing upwind, not much progress made. With such a great run so far and boats to the east of us getting clobbered, no whining allowed on this boat.

Half way there, at least as the albatross flies! Still making great time under reduced canvas with hearty winds & seas on starboard aft quarter. Decided not to cook the flying fish on deck for breakfast.

On second reef & inner foresail, will reduce to 3rd reef soon with wind & seas building. At least it warmed up enough to take off our coats & gloves!

Position from noon today. Propagation is poor so having trouble sending and receiving info, including current gribs; trying to situate ourselves reasonably well for upcoming weather.

Rough start leaving NZ yesterday but calmer now and making good progress

Waiting in Opua for a weather window to head to Vanuatu