Up at 4am today and motored 25 miles west to Ushuaia, in company with 5 other boats. 3 of these were OVNIs all with French crews. The early start was required to take advantage of a brief lull in the incessant westerly winds. Sure enough, within an hour of us arriving the wind was howling again and continues. We spent the rest of the day checking into Argentina. They do not make it easy - three different offices and many forms, some in quadruplicate. We also started our application to visit the Falklands. We are told that approval could take up to 20 days! The Brit in me thinks this is all a farce. No one will be interested in the permit when we reach the Falklands, but, if we need to return to Argentina then there will be big problems and hefty fines. We are "sleeping on it". Meanwhile more and more people tell us how good the Falklands are.......


I will attach some more photos from the Chilean channels while I am on the internet.

Arrived in Puerto Williams on Thursday 22nd December. We thought we had sent an update but now (27/12) I realise that it never went. Apologies to anyone who though we had fallen of the bottom of the planet. We have had an enjoyable Christmas here. There are about 15 boats here, a mixture of big charter boats such as Pelagic Australis and smaller privately owned yachts like ourselves. The yachts are almost exclusively made of metal, the exception being little Beduin. There are 6 OVNIs. We have never seen so many gathered together before. Most of the husband/wife crews are French. There are no other Briish yachts here. WE had a great party on Christmas eve with the crews from all over the world gathering in the very impressive sailing school opposite the Micalvi. The Micalvi is a early 1900s transporte ship which was purposely sunk here to make a breakwater, marina and clubhouse. It has seen many adventures start and finish and is the kick off point for the Antarctic Peninsular.


Christmas Day was a quieter affair with dinner on board Ithaka for the 3 of us plus Aleko from Beduin, and Jaques from Moana, our next door neighbour. Getting ready to sail west now to Ushuaia. We will be sad to leave Chile and the Chileans.

Arrived in Puerto Williams on Thursday 22nd December. We thought we had sent an update but now (27/12) I realise that it never went. Apologies to anyone who though we had fallen of the bottom of the planet. We have had an enjoyable Christmas here. There are about 15 boats here, a mixture of big charter boats such as Pelagic Australis and smaller privately owned yachts like ourselves. The yachts are almost exclusively made of metal, the exception being little Beduin. There are 6 OVNIs. We have never seen so many gathered together before. Most of the husband/wife crews are French. There are no other Briish yachts here. WE had a great party on Christmas eve with the crews from all over the world gathering in the very impressive sailing school opposite the Micalvi. The Micalvi is a early 1900s transporte ship which was purposely sunk here to make a breakwater, marina and clubhouse. It has seen many adventures start and finish and is the kick off point for the Antarctic Peninsular.

Christmas Day was a quieter affair with dinner on board Ithaka for the 3 of us plus Aleko from Beduin, and Jaques from Moana, our next door neighbour. Getting ready to sail west now to Ushuaia. We will be sad to leave Chile and the Chileans.

Anchored in Caleta Victor Jara, Isla Navarino, Beagle Canal We are now tucked into a Chilian caleta just opposite Ushuaia, Argentina's hub in these parts. We can hear the occasional plane taking off or landing. Tomorrow we intend to sail 25 miles to Puerto Williams, and stay there for Christmas. We have mixed feelings coming back to civilisation. We're looking forward to contacting family and friends, and that is just about it. No cravings for particular foods. Feelings of dread about the world news we will inevitably catch up on. Colin and I had our last shower 6 weeks ago in Puerto Eden, and I do not feel any great wish or need for one. This is a great turn around, coming from a woman who loved her long, hot showers!

Still anchored in Caleta Olla, Brazo Noroeste, Canal Beagle.

We decided to do one of the walks mentioned in the pilot book in this area, thinking it would probably take 3-4 hours. The walk was to follow a stream to a lake, and then onto the Holanda glacier. There was mention in the book that there were beavers in the area, which we were also interested to see. These beavers are the American/Canadian beaver which were introduced by the Argentinean navy, so they could be hunted for their fur. They adapted very well in their new environment, and in common with many introduced species, have multiplied uncontrollably. They have no natural predators and man does not seem as interested in their fur as he once was.

It soon became obvious that the beavers had developed the large approach area (Colin called it the Slough of Despond after Bunyan's Pilgrim's Progress) into beaver mega city. Not put off, we continued, stumbling, falling, climbing out of holes, balancing on trees which have been cut down by the beavers, determined to see the glacier. It took us 8 hours for the return trip. Luckily we had taken a few small snacks with us. We did not get close to the glacier. Gen managed a brief swim in the lake, which was covered in large icebergs, and even climbed onto one iceberg, for the sheer fun of it. (Crazy, or what!). Aleko developed blisters, and ended up walking bare foot for most of the return walk. He did manage to see one beaver which came out to see what all the noise was about.

We thought it appropriate that the glacier is named after Holland. The Dutch and the beaver have a common interest in dam building and the modification of the hydrological systems of their environment. Beavers are not the soft, cuddly creatures we once thought them to be!

Anchored in Caleta Olla, Brazo Noroeste, Canal Beagle.

We woke to find ice brash in the main Seno Pia area, pushed south by the wind. The blocks of ice take on unusual shapes as they melt, such as rabbits, swans, and even a full size bath! As we were leaving the area, we spotted an enormous male sea lion with his four wives and their large family by a steep sea wall, and also a colony of Imperial Cormarants, sitting on their nests with their young. We sailed down the Beagle Canal with the westerly wind behind us. It slowly increased in intensity, causing us to reduce the mainsail to the second, and then 3rd reef. We gratefully tucked into the shelter of this caleta, while the wind continued to blow in the canal. With the sun out, the still water in the caleta was a wonderful shade of green. Gen went for a brief (!) swim around the boat, Colin got a haircut on the beach, and we later had a BBQ on the beach with Aleko. We finished off the last of the vacuum packed meat, now 10 weeks old, which was definitely past it's best. We collected the plastic rubbish of the beach, which we will take to Puerto Williams, but left the sausages hoping a zorro colorado (Fuegian Fox) might be enticed onto the beach by their smell.

Anchored in Caleta Norte, Western Arm, Seno Pia, Tierra del Fuego The rain stopped in the morning. We had a quick walk up the hill to see the view. Then got underway and went to the head of the western arm of Seno Pia. We were pleased and a little surprised that the ice allowed us to get up to the glacier face. Here two arms of the glacier meet as they tumble into the bay. The sun came out and, at last, we found the blue ice. The pilot calls it "shrieking blue". I think this was a bit over stated but it was a lovely deep turquoise. We enjoyed an hour or two there, photographs, videos, dinghy excursions, and the now mandatory Pisco Sour, today made with grapefruit juice as the limes have all gone. The pisco has all gone too so perhaps this was the last of our trips to glaciers. Some big ice falls caused a mini tsunami in the bay so we decided to leave and motor back down the sound to this little caleta.

Anchored in Caleta Beaulieu, Seno Pia, Tierra del Fuego We stayed in Caleta Cinco Estrallas for 2 nights. Yesterday we hiked up the mountain to the NW of the caleta. The weather was good, even some sun, and we watched the condors soaring above the ridges, and occasionally also below us, sometimes under attack from the much smaller but more nimble skuas. We were joined in the caleta by a French yacht, an OVNI 365, slightly smaller and much newer than Ithaka, and crewed by a lovely couple from Brittany, Frank and Marlena. An Argentinian yacht also arrived and stayed for a very short night before heading on west in the good weather at 4.30 this morning.

Today we set off for Seno Pia. As we sailed past the eastern side of the entrance to Bahia Tres Brazos we came upon a dead whale on the beach. We swooped in to take a closer look. Hundreds of birds, mainly giant petrels but also our condors from yesterday, all having a great party. We were wondering how the condors survived as there are very few land mammals in Patagonia. Now we know! In Seno Pia we explored the glacier in the eastern bay of the eastern arm. There was less floating ice than in Seno Ventisquero so with keel and rudder up, we were able to take Ithaka very close to the towering ice face. The regular crash of small lumps of ice into the bay persuaded us to maintain a healthy distance from the fissured and overhanging face which at a guess was some 50 - 75 metres high. The ice was streaked with grey - bands of grit dragged off the mountain in the glaciers progress to the sea. Because of her draft, Aleko had anchored Beduin on the seaward side of the shallow bar, an ancient moraine, which crosses the entrance to the bay. He then paddled his way to the ice face on his paddle board, a braver man than me.

We have now retired to this caleta some 2 miles from the glacier. Its raining outside and we are content to hide here until the weather improves before we explore more of Seno Pia.

Anchored in Caleta Cinco Estrellas, Bahia Tres Brazos, Isla Gordon In this game you sometimes have to take the hits. After yesterday's sublime beauty, today was one of hard knocks, thankfully all turning out well in the end, and only money and time required to fix things.

We left the safety of Caleta Alakush intent on another meeting with the glacier at the head of Seno Garibaldi. The GRIBS showed some wind coming our way, well actually 25-30 knots from the NW. But it was a beautiful morning, not the sun of yesterday but a pleasant breeze from the west. We entered Seno Garibaldi and started beating north, some 11 miles to go and the wind a brisk 20-25 knots. Double reefed main and 3 reefed yankee and we were very comfortable making 6.5 knots. Then the wind instrument went blank. I squinted at the masthead and could see the anemometer and vane complete with their mounting strut swinging around and not at all in the right orientation. I surmised the unit was swinging form its delicate electrical cable and would not stay there long. Time for a trip up the mast, but the wind had other ideas and chose this time to kick us in the teeth, we guessed (no instruments) at 40 knots. We furled the yankee and started the engine in the hope that we could reduce the motion and eke the last of the life from the electrical filaments. Ten minutes later, I am on deck, harness on and tied to the halyard, ready to climb. I look aloft - nothing there, the mast tip strangely naked.

Not much enthusiasm for beating into 40 knots, glacier or not. We turn and run, bare poles, 6.5 knots. Head back across the Beagle Channel aiming for this three-armed bay. The wind moderates briefly as we cross and we raise full sail. Five minutes later I take a glance behind, a smoke grey cloud obliterates the western view, the sea white-streaked black below it. We furl the yankee, but too late for the mainsail. We run before it praying that the mainsail can withstand the onslaught. Thankfully it does and we make the lee of a small headland in the entrance to the bay which gives us a couple of minutes to lower the sail.

No sails again and still scudding along amidst the white spume. The faithful Volvo comes to life and we claw our way into peace. The peace of a perfect caleta, a hiding place from the rage outside.

Anchored in Caleta Alakush, Paso Darwin, Isla Chair Arrived here late this evening after our exciting day visiting the glacier. Hopefully its a good anchorage for the wind is due to increase over night as another front moves in. Its nice to be in an anchorage with a Yamana indian name. So many of the names here are European. Alakush is Yamana for Steamer Duck.

As close to the glacier as we can get! NE Arm of Seno Ventisquero Well this is where we had lunch. Hope you can see it on google earth.

I will try to describe the scene but I will undoubtedly not do it justice.

We are in a circular bay at the head of Seno Ventisquero, a sound stretching 12 miles north from the Brazo Noroeaste del Canal Beagle.

The bright sunlight is reflecting off the vast ice cap to our North which covers the Cordillera Darwin. A great tongue of ice is flowing down the mountain and into the bay along a 2-300 metre front, a wall of ice, blue, grey, white, dazzling in the sun. Above it the river of ice rises in giant steps up onto the cordillera. The bay is full of ice. We have spent an hour gently pushing our way through brash ice and bergy bits, listening to the crunch and judder as the aluminium hull pushes them aside. Ithaka, the ice-breaker in the lead, with Beduin in her slipstream a few metres astern minimising the risk of damage to delicate gel coat.

Now Beduin and Ithaka are rafted together in the middle of the bay, as close as we can get to the ice front. Aleko (from Beduin) is out on his paddle board exploring bergy bits, Gen is at the top of Ithaka's mast taking photos, Ana is shaking the Pisco Sour in a cocktail shaker (well actually a plastic water bottle), chilled with 1000 year old ice which I am breaking up with a hammer. Occasionally there is a crack and a roar like thunder as another enormous piece of this ancient glacier slips into the water. We toast each other with Pisco Sour. It is the best Pisco Sour we have ever tasted. Then there is hot soup and bread in the cockpit followed by thick black coffee.

We are quiet, drinking in the beauty and the majesty of this wild, wild place.

We drift, rotating gently in unison with the ice around us, a stately dance, driven by unseen currents from the blue-green depths. We are not in control. The currents take us, as they do the ice, inexorably towards the sea. When we are released, we continue south, hoisting sails to catch the cool breeze flowing down from the cordillera. Some of our ice partners accompany us for a time but they all slowly dissolve, returning whence they came, a thousand years ago.

Caleta Emilita, N Coast of Canal O'Brien, Isla O'Brien Nice sail this morning, hard on the wind for the first couple of hours after leaving Isla del Medio. 20-25 knots from the south.....cold, with sunny periods and occasional snow showers. The light on the freshly snow-sprinkled mountains was beautiful, the wind and snow, biting into your face, made you feel really alive, and as we turned west into Canal O'Brien the wind softened as it went aft, and we toasted ourselves with cups of hot cocoa and fruit cake.

Ana and I hiked up the mountain behind the caleta this afternoon. Again the amazing light, and the snow and rain blowing in from the Southern Ocean. It reminded us of another mountain on remote St. Kilda, west of the Hebrides, where we first kissed, a long, long time ago......and I noticed she was wearing the same Helly Hansen waterproofs. They made 'em tough in those days.

Pozo Isla del Medio, Canal Ballenero We have escaped from Caleta Brecknock. We woke this morning to rain but no noise of the wind. We cast off the 7 lines, lifted the two anchors and Ithaka and Beduin peeped out from the steep rock walls. Outside some williwaws punching down onto the sound but not too strong. Soon we had sails up and were slipping along at a respectable 5 knots. It was good to be under way again. We moved from Canal Brecknock into Canal Ballenero, surmising that this might mean"the Whalers' Channel". It rained on and off all day but nothing like the torrents we have survived in the last two days. With 45 miles under our belts we turned into this totally enclosed pool (Pozo means well) in the Middle island of a group called Islas del Medio. The access is via a 50 metre kelp lined channel 4 metres deep and perhaps 8 metres wide. We are now getting close to the glaciers. Exciting.

Caleta Brecknock, Seno Ocasion, Tierra del Fuego Indoor day today, sheltering from the wind and rain. The floor boards have swollen from the very high humidity, so one job was to plane and then varnish their edges. No small feat in the small interior space of a boat. Also began making another batch of soft cheese from a type of fungus called Kefir. A mushroom that is magic! The fungus had been given to us by Aleko, who in turn had received it from another sailor. So many things are passed from one sailor to another - charts, live bread yeast, boat parts, books and of course, valuable advice about an area. The camaraderie of sailors is a wonderful thing.

Caleta Brecknock, Seno Ocasion, Tierra del Fuego Waiting on weather here in Caleta Brecknock with the wind howling everywhere but here where we are so well sheltered. The Gribs show at least two days of 40 knots, plus gusts, so I think we will have another day here tomorrow. We spent yesterday evening and this morning repairing the spray hood, the plastic window of which was smashed yesterday by a wayward yankee sheet. Luckily we had some clear flexible plastic on board left over from our double glazing job in Puerto Montt. The sewing machine behaved impeccably and we now have the repaired spray hood re-installed.

Despite the rain and wind we had a lovely hike up the hill overlooking the caleta this afternoon. The scenery is awesome ( I don't use this word lightly). Sheer rock walls, lofty pinacles, Seno Ocasion stretching to the south, white crests everywhere and mini tornados rushing across the surface, occasional sunny flashes making everything sparkle. At a more macro level the little trees grow horizontally twisting around rocks for support. They are small, gnarled and misshapen by the wind but still manage to flower thus ensuring the next generation.

Caleta Brecknock, Seno Ocasion, Tierra del Fuego An "interesting" day of sailing. Conditions ranged from 3 to 40 knots when making our way down the Cockburn Canal. During one squall as we rapidly furled the yankee, the madly flogging sheets hit the dodger shattering the clear plastic window. Meanwhile Beduin's mainsail tore from luff to leach just below the top batten and Aleko was out on the foredeck wrestling with his genoa also trying to reduce sail. All this happened in poor visibility and when a tug towing a tanker (ie with restricted mobility) was heading directly for us, a mile away.

All of us were relieved to reach this caleta, which is like something out of Lord of the Rings, towering mountains of lead coloured rock, very little vegetation and numerous waterfalls. We're expecting very strong winds over the next few days, so are anchored together with Beduin, and 6 lines to the shore. It's probably one of the best caletas in the area, so we should be fine. Today's highlight was spotting a Zorro Colorado (Fuegian red fox) snatch a baby chick from it's nest, just 30m away from the anchorage.

It's all happening here!

Caleta Cluedo, Isla Clarence,Seno Duntze Safe but slow progress this last two days in rather inclement weather. We set out from Caleta Murray yesterday (Tuesday) morning intending to pass south through Seno Pedro and Canal Acwalisnan into Canal Cockburn. There are three possible routes through to Cockburn from Estrecho Magallanes, the longest and most eastward is the "official" route, while the other two are shorter and not fully charted. We went for the middle one balancing distance with safety. The Armada (Chilean Navy) make the rules here but many of the rules are more appropriate for larger commercial craft so sometimes it is safer to follow the "non allowed" route as do most yachts.

As soon as we passed the entrance to Caleta Murray the wind piped up and we were soon motor sailing (mainly motor) into 30+ knots. We soon realised we were not going to get very far so turned right into a little bay where we found some shelter up against a rocky shore on the south side. Nice walk in the afternoon. Up a river and into the pristine moss laden forest full of deep holes, fallen and rotting trees all camouflaged under thousands of different species of moss sometimes 1/2 metre thick.

This morning we started again. The wind had moderated a little but the rain was continuous. As we went further into the sound there was more shelter from the mountains, stretching high into the clouds, on either side. We passed through the Angostura (Narrows) in Acwalisnan, against the current, just making way against 4 knots. Then out into a wider stretch where we started sailing again in a freeing wind, full of williwaws blasting down off the hills to the west. We are now tied to stout trees at the head of this caleta, the wind still moaning in the rigging, the heater making the saloon cosy, reading, planning, chatting. Not much interest in walking this afternoon!

Caleta Murray, Isla Clarence, Seno Pedro, Another smashing day. Blue skies, a brisk wind behind us, several sightings of Humpback whales and, the highlight, sightings of 3 Condors. The first sighting was of a pair, soaring closely together in unison.

Anchored in Bahia Mussel, Isla Carlos III, Estrecho de Magallanes.

Today has been one of those unforgettable days that we will remember for the rest of our lives. It drizzled lightly though the night but we emerged into a bright dawn and a light wind from the west. There were three boats moored side by side in the caleta, Beduin, a fishing boat and Ithaka. A surge of activity; ropes, anchors, dinghies, fenders, engines, windlasses, and then we were separated and all underway. Beduin and Ithaka blew South East through Paso Tortuoso which brought us to the junction with Canal Jeronimo where we saw tell-tale puffs of vapour. We rounded up onto a reach and soon came amongst three humpback whales feeding together with a multitude of birds; Penguins, Black Browed Albatross, Giant Petrels, too many to count, too many to identify. Then on, in the brightening sunshine and into this caleta at the head of a broad bay. In the afternoon we climbed a peak to the North of the anchorage and were rewarded with a stunning panorama, the Magellan Strait blue and sparkling, snow capped mountains to the North and South and Beduin and Ithaka in a deep red lagoon far below us. Out in the strait there were a thousand seabirds and the regular blows and occasional tail flukes of humpback whales. The churning, upwelling currents made ever changing grey-blue patterns in the smooth sea. The sun hot on our backs, wind virtually non-existent, and no sign of humans or signs that any had ever been in this place before us. A truly unspoilt wilderness.

Anchored in Caleta Campamento, Isla Spider, Estr. de Magallanes Sailed south eastwards with wind behind us for 15 miles to this caleta. No dramas. Met up again with Aleko of Beduin here. Enjoyed a good catch up over dinner, which included centolla (king crab) given to Aleko by fishermen.

Still anchored in Caleta Playa Parda Chica on Isla Riesco, North side of Estrecho de Magallanes.

Waited here for a day today. The weather was supposed to be very windy but we are still waiting. Hopefully get going again tomorrow.

Saw a magnificent Ringed Kingfisher, about kukaburra size but splendid coloured plumage. Gen went stalking it in the dinghy and managed to get a picture of it eating a fish.

Anchored in Caleta Playa Parda Chica on Isla Riesco, North side of Estrecho de Magallanes.

Early start (5am) to download the GRIBS (Weather Info). Dawn had just broken, raining and blowing. Even sheltered in amongst the trees the wind was whistling in the little bit of mast which was above them. However, apart from the rain, the wind was in the right direction and not forecast to go above 35 knots. We called the Faro Fairway Lighthouse some 10 miles away and they confirmed the weather situation and also told us the current conditions at Faro - only 18knots - "green light go".

We de-rigged our cat's cradle of mooring lines finding that they had accumulated lots of clingy green slimy weed, and set off. Hard on the wind for the first 15 miles into the Magellan Strait, we had 2 reefs in the main, and after the first 30 knot chubasco(squall), we furled the yankee and kept only the staysail forward of the mast.

This section of the Magellan Strait has much history. It is one of the windiest and wildest parts of Patagonia and is where Joshua Slocum and countless other navigators have waited for weeks for a favourable wind to allow them to sail West into the Pacific Ocean, or North up Canal Smyth. We looked astern into the West, into the grey, rain laden wind, at the grey white capped swell, and were thankful we were heading East.

The strait narrowed as we drove on in front of an increasing wind. Furled the mainsail shortly after lunch and continued under staysail alone for the rest of the day still making 7 knots.

Anchored and tied to the shore with three lines now. The wind has died and the sky seems to be brightening a little. Beduin has left us a message tied to a tree - he left here this morning so only one day ahead now. We should catch him again soon.

Anchored in Puerto Profundo (Caleta Teikita), west coast of Canal Smyth, Isla Manuel Rodriguez We decided to stay put today, after examining the Grib and Armada weather forecasts for the next few days. It was a glorious day, so we washed clothes in the stream a few metres behind Ithaka, had lunch in the cockpit, and went for a lovely walk (well, it was lovely once we got past the bush bashing stage to get to higher ground). Spotted a pair of Rufous Chested Dotterels, a Green Backed Fire Crown Hummingbird, and 2 pairs of Magellanic Oystercatchers. Gen is keeping us right about our birds!!!

Anchored in Puerto Profundo (Caleta Teikita), west coast of Canal Smyth, Isla Manuel Rodriguez We up'd anchor early this afternoon, after the rain had stopped, and moved a grand distance of 13nm south. It is supposed to be a good anchorage to wait for favourable winds to cross the Estrecho de Magallanes. This anchorage is enclosed, but is subject to gusts, so apart from the anchor, Colin attached four lines to the shore (two forward and two aft). We found another orange message flag from Aleko, who left the caleta three days ago, heading for a caleta in the Paso del Mar.

The attaching of lines sounds easier than it is. There are several challenges. The first is that the caleta is surrounded by rock walls some 3 - 5 meters high which rise sheer from the sea. Then there is the prolific vegetation which cascades down the rock walls, making it very difficult to find steps to climb them. The trees are up on top of the cliffs and are not all of the stout variety. Many are rotten or are disguised by the thick moss which covers everything. So, after an hour of cliff climbing, tree climbing, pruning, and abseiling, we are now very well fixed to four stoutish trees and are having a beer in the belief that we will not be moved by anything short of a hurricane. Let's hope so.

Anchored in Caleta Darde, east coast of Canal Smyth, Isla Hose Despite the williwaws at the anchorage, we decided to up anchor. Sure enough, once out in Canal Smyth the wind steadied to 15 to 20 knots on the aft beam , and with just the Yankee up, we cruised at a good pace, 20nm south. Six or seven Sei whales (we think) were spotted, in pairs or individually along the way.

This delightful caleta is completely enclosed. However, to our horror, there was another yacht in the anchorage! (Apart from sharing some anchorages with Beduin, we have had the place to ourselves.) When we arrived in the caleta, we found a sign, a small orange piece of cloth, hanging prominently on a tree near the shore, from Aleko of Beduin. It said he had left the caleta 5 days ago, and also suggested a walk in the area, which leads across to the other side of the island, which we then did. The walk gave fantastic views towards Estrecho de Magallanes, and a 360 degree view of the shores of this island. We think that, with the more peaceful anchorage and the exercise, we will all sleep well tonight.

Still anchored in Bahia Mallet, East coast of Canal Smyth "Snow" day today. Strong wind and rain put us off moving from this anchorage. Once rain stopped in the late afternoon, we ventured ashore, and decided to walk to view the isthmus. The 100 metre pass was once used by the Indians to portage their canoes from Seno Union to Canal Smyth, saving many miles of canoeing. We observed that the wind in Seno Union was blowing one way, and in Canal Smyth, the opposite direction! Here in this caleta the wind is coming from all directions, and the two anchors and 3 lines ashore are all, at some time, working to hold Ithaka in place.

Ashore, we marvelled at the different plants and mosses. Trees are more stunted and twisted than in the north. Chilean Skuas, Steamer ducks, Austral Blackbirds and Thorn-tailed Rayaditos spotted. Gen is very much helping us with identifying these birds!

Anchored in Bahia Mallet, East coast of Canal Smyth Exceptionally quiet night last night but a long day today. Quiet start motoring down the west side of Isla Diego Portales through magnificent scenery in warm sunshine. Then through the narrow channels into Seno Union. Here we met the wind and started beating to the North West finally arriving at Canal Smyth at 1800 and then running south to this inlet. As we approached in what had become 30 knots from the NW, we were joined by dolphins and leaping fur seals who escorted us to the anchorage. We have put out two anchors and 3 ropes to the shore as we are expecting some windy weather over the next few days.

Anchored in Caleta Mousse, Canal Santa Maria We spent yesterday on the boat, sewing mainly and other jobs. The weather was grey but not raining and the wind gusty, swinging the boat around on her anchor. In the late afternoon we received a text from Gen saying she would be in Puerto Natales at 1700. We had already agreed she would spend the night ashore as the 1 mile return dinghy ride across the strait would not be safe or enjoyable.

Up bright and early this morning and greeted by blue sky and sun. We moved the boat to an anchorage just off the fish dock, launched the dinghy and rowed ashore to find Gen just appearing round the corner. It was great to see her. What a long trip she has had from Aberdeen. Then a busy morning; check out with the Armada, shopping for food, recharging phones, more money from ATM, etc etc. Three dinghy trips to Ithaka still bobbing away in the bright sunshine. Then we were off again, heading South West into the SW breeze with some motor assist. At 1800 we passed through the Angostura White north of Isla Diego Portales into Canal Santa Maria. Brilliant scenery, mountains, snow, wooded slopes, bare rock and the churning waters and whirlpools of a the 4-6 knot current which passes through the Angostura (Spanish for Narrows). Gen has already taken several hundred photos and its only day 1. In Caleta Mousse we are anchored and have three lines ashore, totally sheltered.

Good day. The only downside, I forgot to buy the carrots. I am already looking forward to carrots more than anything else in the world!

Anchored in Puerto Laforest, opposite Puerto Natales.


Busy day. Rowed ashore, walked to ferry and crossed to Puerto Natales. Visited the Armada, who stamped all our documents and photocopied them many times. Then booked a delivery of fuel to the fish pier for tomorrow at 0900, hopefully before the wind gets too strong. We had lunch in a restaurant on Plaza de Armas, the town square, before taking a bus to Argentina. This was necessary as we needed to get new 90 day visitor permits for Chile. The process was farcical. We visited Argentina for 2 minutes, checking in at one window, then walking 3 paces left and checking out again. The surprise was the long distance between the Chilean and Argentinian border controls, about a 3km strip of no-mans-land which, luckily we did not have to walk because the good, christian people of Chile and Argentina stopped and gave us lifts. Back in Chile and Puerto Natales, the weather was fine, very fine. 25 degrees celsius! We and everyone else were amazed. There were people swimming in the sea, bathing in the fountains, and there was a run on ice creams. Weidled away an hour or two, missed the ferry back across the strait and had to employ a fisherman to give us a lift. Always quick to take an opportunity, the Chilean fisherman charged us 30000pesos, about 30GBP. Great day! So nice to be warm again.

Anchored in Puerto Laforest, opposite Puerto Natales We were up at 5.30 to catch the right side of the tide to go through the last section of Angostura Kirke. Apparently the tidal stream can reach of maximum of 8 to 10 knots, one of the strongest currents in Chile. We had a 2 knot current going with us, when suddenly a 35 knot wind squall funneled down through the strait, making Ithaka do 10.5 knots. Then, just round the corner, the wind dropped completely and we had to motor for a while.

Angostura Kirke lies right on the border between the Cordillera de los Andes and the transition zone of semi-arid pampa. The west side of the narrows is typical of Patagonian channels, with high mountains and rainfalls. Because the Cordillera peaks provide a barrier to the clouds, the east side has a low rainfall, and there are plains.

As we approached Puerto Natales, we caught sight of a 4 x 4 truck driving fast along a dirt, flat road throwing clouds of dust behind it. Such a contrast of all we have experienced in the past few weeks.

Plan to go ashore tomorrow.

PS Apologies for an error I made yesterday. Lucas has pointed out that the university in La Plata is in Argentina, not Chile. It seems that both Argentina and Chile suffered from oppressive military regimes during 1970 to 1990, causing many thousands of people to "disappear".

Anchored in Caleta Desaparecidos, WNW of Angostura Kirke Today we woke to silence and sunshine! After 5 fronts passing over the last 4 weeks, we were beginning to forget what sunshine looked like! The cloud level had also risen, exposing imposing,snow capped mountains in the near distance. Picture postcard stuff. We had the wind behind us for most of the day. Again spotted otters, this time sleeping on their backs, not the least disturbed by our presence. This is (finally) the life! Now anchored in this caleta, named after the 30,000 people who "disappeared" in the Chilean military ruling between 1976-82. Apparently a whole generation of students were exterminated in the university town of La Plata. The caleta is in a tiny bay, surrounded by woodland, and at the entrance we can observe occasionally little fishing boats going by in the Angostura (narrows) which links Puerto Natales with the sea. It's an appropriate memorial to those people.

Aiming to be in Puerto Natales tomorrow. The big smoke.

Anchored in Caleta Victoria, Isla Hunter.

Well the gale continued yesterday so we stayed put in Puerto Mayne, most of the time down below out of the rain.

Today dawned fine, well relatively so. We had a great sail down Canal Sarmiento, then a dogleg through Canal Farquhar into Estrecho Collingwood. The names of these straits, caletas and points are amazing, memorialising (if that's a word) the discovery of Patagonia by Europeans over many, many years.

Now we are tucked up in Caleta Victoria on Isla Hunter, a few metres from Beduin. Tomorrow will be the parting of our ways, Beduin heading on south down Canal Smythe towards Puerto Williams, and Ithaka taking the detour East through Seno Union, towards Puerto Natales. So tonight we will celebrate with Aleko, the safe and enjoyable trip so far, and wish each other fair winds. We hope to meet again further down the track

Anchored in Puerto Mayne, Isla Evans, Canel Sarmiento Today Beduin and Ithaka barrelled along with a fresh NW wind behind us. The wind steadily increased, to the point Beduin was carrying just a headsail, and Ithaka a reefed mainsail, and we were going like the clappers, ie 9-10 knots! Rather pleased and relieved to arrive at the anchorage.

Despite the pilot book saying this anchorage offers good, all round shelter, we found bursts of wind still funnelled down from the surrounding mountains. Two attempts were made to anchor, what with the squalls, the small cove, and rocky ledges to each side. Getting the ropes ashore was fun and games too. But now we are secure, Beduin and Ithaka tied together, with 2 anchors, loads of chain, and 4 shore lines. Let the gale continue!

Anchored in Caleta Paroquet, Isla Chatham, East coast of Canal Inocentes Dawn. Not raining. Northerly wind. Yes! Untied, up-anchored, up-sailed in glorious anticipation.

It started slowly, then filled in from the North West. Full sail squared away, Yankee poled out and off we went. As easy as that. By lunchtime we had left Canal Concepcion and entered Canal Inocentes. Auto pilot on. Sitting in the cockpit in the warm sun. Beduin half a mile away bowling along. This is what sailing is all about. Arrived here, 40 miles later, in this very sheltered and beautiful caleta at 1730. We were met by Steamer Ducks who fly on the water, faster than swimming but not as fast as flying. Dosn't look too elegant either. Joshua Slocum was met by them too in 1895. "The steamboat duck, so called because it propels itself over the sea with its wings, and resembles a miniature side-wheel steamer in its motion, was sometimes seen scurrying out of danger. It never flies, but, hitting the water instead of the air with its wings, it moves faster than a rowboat or canoe."

Anchored in Caleta Neruda, Isla Topar, at junctions of Canal Wide, Trinidad and Concepcion This morning we lit a candle for Alan, as it was his funeral today. Our thoughts were with Moira and his family. It was a token, but important, gesture for us.

Coming out into the cockpit we noticed fresh snow had fallen in the night. The snow level is lower on all the mountains. At sea level it was still raining as we set off into shifty wind from the north, and not much of it. Lots of tacking, gybing, poling the yankee, but little progress. On came the motor until we came to the point where Canal Wide points SW. Then came the wind. Straight on the nose at 20 knots, gusting quite a bit more when the squalls hit. We double reefed the main and yankee, and spent the rest of the day beating to windward through heavy rain showers. Chilly sailing.

This Caleta is supposed to be perfect shelter from all directions. However there seems to be a bit of SW swell getting in. We've put the anchor out with loads of chain and hauled ourselves into the east side with a couple of ropes to some handy trees which gives us as much shelter as possible. Should be good. North wind promised tomorrow which should be good too.

Anchored in Caleta Nassibal, Seno Antrim Last night it rained. This morning it rained as we raised anchor and sails. At lunchtime we were sailing with the squally winds behind us, through narrow straights with sheer rock walls stretching up to mountains which disappeared into the clouds. Coming out of the clouds and down the mountains were a thousand waterfalls, glistening white against the brown-green foliage. Occasionally we would pass their final crescendo as they burst down the rock into the strait. At lunchtime it rained. We passed penguins fishing and excited terns swooping overhead. And still it rained. We anchored in 12 metres in the centre of a tiny bay, then reversed into a narrow cut paying out 60 metres of chain. We passed our floating warps to Aleko on his paddle board, who had arrived in Beduin a few minutes earlier, and he paddled to the rock sides of the cut and tied bowlines around trees. We tensioned the lines - all still, quiet, sheltered and secure - and still it rained.

Down below now, replete with macaroni cheese, the eberspacher heater making the saloon cosy and snug, 2 candles burning low on the table, the smell of cake baking in the oven. But in the background, outside in the big wide world, it rains.

Still anchored in Puerto Eden Yet another frontal system came through last night, with strong wind and rain. Out in Gulfo de Penas, gusts of 60-80 knots were forecast.

We've had some time to explore this little village. It has a population of 120 men and 40 women during the summer, and a lot less in the winter. A long boardwalk runs along the shore, connecting every house, the school and police station. They use boardwalks instead of paths to protect the delicate, soggy, moss covered land which would be a mud bath otherwise. There are 3 little shops where there is a very limited choice of 'survival' foodstuffs. You press the doorbell, and the owner opens up the shop. Today a ferry, which makes the run between Puerto Montt and Puerto Natales twice a week, stopped to deliver fresh food and special orders. A flurry of activity occurred, as lots of little boats went out to the ferry anchored in the bay. These boats are painted yellow and red, and all fly the Chilean flag. It had just stopped raining, and the sun was shining, so it was quite a cheerful sight.

We have the luxury of internet here, so were able to catch up with our daughters by skype. We also received the news of Alan Gerrard's passing. Alan was our neighbour's dad and has been looking after our garden while we are away. We will miss him a lot.

This is an amazing adventure which we feel priviledged to be undertaking, but we do miss the immediate contact with family and friends. We are a long way from home.

Anchored in Puerto Eden We unofficially changed the name of Caleta Point Ley, where we were anchored last night, to Caleta Leonard Cohen, after we received the sad news of his death this morning. The enclosed caleta has sides of virgin trees, tree ferns and moss, a tumbling waterfall and tame birds and otters. I hope he'd approve.

It's been a long day of motor sailing in light winds. The tops of the nearby mountains have heavy snow, and there has been no sign of man for miles. This evening we arrived in Puerto Eden, which is said to be the wettest and most remote town in the world. It is only accessed by sea. No cars, no planes. It's strange to be back in civilisation again.

Anchored in Caleta Point Lay Good days sailing today after a "snow day" yesterday in Caleta Lamento de Indio. It rained solidly all yesterday and we amused ourselves, Ana baking and I, repairing the Chilean flag and checking the engine. Today it was overcast but generally fine and Ithaka and Beduin had another private regatta sailing south through Canal Messier, finishing within seconds of each other at the entrance to this caleta. We were greeted by two otters tumbling over each other and small white and black birds flitting across the water feeding on the flying insects.

Unfortunately the news of the madness of humanity has reached even this point of isolation on the surface of the planet and we too are ruminating on the likely fallout that 4 years of President Trump will bring.

Stupid White Man indeed.

Anchored in Caleta Lamento del Indio (Puerto Inti-Illimani) Another perfectly sheltered Caleta, Beduin and Ithaka moored to trees side by side. We have just come back from the beach where we have eaten like kings, celebrating completing our crossing of the Golfo de Penas. We have eaten half of the large fish (wahoo) that Aleko caught this morning, and he is threatening fish soup tomorrow.

The crossing of the Golfo de Penas went well. We had westerlies which made for fast reaching sometimes made more exciting by the regular squalls. All well on board and looking forward to an early night.

On passage across Golfo de Penas, to Isla San Pedro .

On passage again. Currently heading south with Cabo Gallegos abeam. So far it has been a much smoother day than yesterday. The wind has been reasonbly constant from the west with a few squalls. The Pacific Swell is still here but we have gone further offshore and the the waves are further apart.

Enjoyed a very quiet night last night in Caleta Pico Paico. Aleko on Beduin, ten metres to port, had a more disturbed night because a couple of otters were having a party on his deck!

Anchored in Seno Pico-Paico (or Fondeadero Skyring). Well the wind has certainly decreased, a little further than we would have liked. Shame about the Pacific swell which remains - Muy Gruesa (Very Rough) said the forecast and it was correct. We left Caleta Millabu at crack of dawn having had a very difficult time getting the crew on her feet. Lovely dawn, beautiful light on the islands in Bajia Anna Pink. Initially the sea was flat and the light wind pushed us along steadily. However the wind became fitful, the waves became gruesome, and we struggled to make progress, resorting to the Volvo for long periods. At about 1300 the electronics started alarming and then died completely. This was more disconcerting than a problem but the one thing we would need going into any anchorage was a depth sounder. I didn't fancy using the lead line (we do have one) in more than about 5 metres. Luckily Beduin was to hand so we followed him into this gorgeous completely enclosed lagoon and we are now both anchored in 20 metres with our sterns some 5 metres from the thickly forested shore, a stream running conveniently close by, and birds twittering in the forest.

I traced the electronics fault to flooding of the instrument pod on the binnacle, annoying as we bought it new not 2 years ago in NZ. One piece of electronics kit (the Raymarine RF Base Station for those who know about such things)had spent some time siting in the puddle and chose today to finally burn itself up, blowing the overall instrument fuse at the same time. Luckily we can manage without this piece of electrickery and we now have instruments working again.

Just enjoyed freshly baked Pizza, some Chilean Carmenere and the company of Aleko of Beduin, for dinner.

Anchored in Caleta Millabu on the island of Clemente. The wind reduced and the rain stopped this morning, so we decided to head for this anchorage, our agreed rendevous with Beduin. We had a few squalls to contend with, but nothing like we have had over the past week. We arrived at the 2 mile long inlet, which is deep sided, with bare rock, scrub and waterfalls. A complete contrast to the temperate rain forested cove of this morning. There was no sign of Beduin. However, only when we reached the head of the inlet did we spot her and Aleko, tucked in to one side, very close to the shore. We heard later he had had a much worse time of it than us over the past 5 days at this anchorage, with sudden wind shifts, williwaws, having a dragging fishing boat alongside, and even a mini tornado! It was great to go ashore, having been cooped up on the boat for 9 days. The three of us walked/scrambled up along the side of a fast flowing waterfall for two hours, and admired the views, the different flora, birds, and stripy frogs. We filled some water containers from a small stream near the boat, and discovered the remains of a number of crabs legs. Put two and two together, to conclude it must be a picnic place for otters.

Still here in Caleta Saudade. Still raining. Receiving some lovely emails, which cheers us up no end.

Still anchored in Caleta Saudade. We've had squally weather and really heavy rain, so we are very pleased to have the protection this snug cove. Ithaka lies with each side of her 7m away from the shore and in 4m of water. We are 7 miles from an anchorage on the south side of Isla Clemente and to the open water of Bahia Anna Pink. We agreed a week ago when we last parted company with Aleko, the single handed sailor, to meet at this anchorage. The aim is to make our way south together, across the infamous Gulfo de Penas, which has been having winds of 40-80 knots this week. At 4pm the storm abated, and we were tempted to make a break for it to join Aleko, but we both agreed it would be foolhardy to set off this late in the day. From the Grib and Chile Armada weather reports, it seems we may be here for at least another day, maybe more. In the meantime, one job is leading to another....

Challenging sailing today. Post-frontal, with winds ranging from 0-38 knots, most of it right on the nose. Lots of tacking was required in the narrow bays and channels. We're now in a tiny cove, Caleta Saudade which is reported to be, in the pilot guide, hurricane-proof with an anchor and 2 ropes. Half way through dinner we noticed the stern swing violently to one side due to a wind gust, so Colin has secured yet another 2 ropes to the shore. A front is due tomorrow, so we may just stay put. Now understand why there are so many waterfalls...because it rains ALOT!

A real mixed bag of sailing again today. Calm patches, sudden very strong gusts, and the wind shifting 180 degrees with very little warning. I think we reefed and de-reefed the mainsail 4 times. I was thinking of the good old times in the Pacific when we were on the same tack for 4 days or more! We are now in the land of hanging valleys and waterfalls. Apart from the odd salmon farm, there is no sign of man.

Tonight, we are in Caleta Jacqueline, a perfect anchorage, giving 360 degree protection. It's beaches and surrounding dense forest are pristine. We dropped the anchor, reversed into a small cove and used 2 ropes to tie the stern to an existing rope left by fishermen. At the head of the cove about 40 metres away is a white roaring waterfall. Colin went ashore to wash his hair in the free, cold, fresh water. I did mine in the kitchen sink with hot water from the engine-heated calorifier. Another front due tonight, the light rain has started but all we hear outside is the waterfall.

Hooray, hooray. At last we have escaped from Chacabuco and Seno Aysen and we are anchored in Caleta Santiago.

The day has not been without drama. A sleepless night as yet another front passed through. Then some doubts about departing because of the horrendous gusts which kept bombarding us in the anchorage. We had decided we must leave. We couldn't spend another day here looking at the same patch of shore. Not even a particularly pretty patch. The forecast was quite good but not reflected in the reality.

The safe anchorage at Chacabuco has a tidal entrance and even we, with lifting keel and rudder have to take care. We left at 1100, half tide and rising, following our inward track on the I-Pad. Bang! the keel hit bottom, Bang! The rudder too. Not enough care taken! The keel rode up because I had freed the hydraulics. The rudder however, was a different matter as its hydraulics were locked. A good safety feature in the OVNI is a bursting disc in the hydraulic systems for each of the rudder and the centreboard. This works like a fuse protecting the rest of the system. It burst with a pop and a hiss and the rudder rode up over the sandbank we had hit. So no harm done...we hope. We motored gingerly back to the anchorage, re-anchored, and I replaced the bursting disc. An hour later we set off again, very slowly, very carefully. Chacabuco's parting remark was a hail storm. We motored into it the hail stinging our faces.

Not a nice sail down Seno Aysen. Wind on the nose for the first ten miles, sometimes only 10 knots and then 30 knots a minute later. We found headsails and engine to be the best combination. Then, amazingly, the wind went aft and we scooted out of the fjord in great style. But it didn't last. Back on the nose again for the last 6 miles.

Glad to be here. Glad not to be in Chacabuco. Glad of the heater which is warming the cabin very nicely. Good night.

Still anchored in Ensenada Baja, Chacabuco. We are now getting used to more typical Patagonian weather with fronts passing approximately every 24 hours. The wind howls and we get heavy rain for a few hours, then, as the front passes, glimpses of blue sky amongst heavy clouds which come with big rain squalls and wind up in the 30+ knots. The frequency of the squalls decreases and then all goes quiet for a while before it all starts again. The boat cavorts about her anchor occasionally healing quite dramatically.

Yesterday we dropped Janet, my sister, ashore and she started her 4 day journey back to Cornwall. Hopefully she will be in Santiago by now and basking in the summer sun. Meanwhile we set off, beating into very little wind and hoping to get to the end of Seno Aysen before dusk. But it was not to be. The front came in and we realised that we would not make the next caleta before nightfall so reluctantly headed back to this very secure anchorage. This morning we deployed a second anchor as we had dragged a little in the strong squalls, and then settled down to boat jobs and catching up on the communications, as we have very good internet here. We will see what tomorrow brings but not hopeful of much progress to the west with the current forecast.

Anchored in Ensenada Baja, Chacabuco. The front with much rain passed overnight. The yellow fishing boat kept dragging his anchor in the strong gusts and finally came to rest alongside Ithaka at 0300. Not much said and luckily his outboard started on the 15th pull and he headed off up wind again. This was the front's final gasp and then all went quiet. Next thing we knew it was broad daylight and the blue sky had returned. We sailed 25 miles inland up Seno Aysen, a broad fjord with high snow covered mountains on either side, reminiscent of Norway and Fjordland in NZ. Now anchored in a broad and totally enclosed lagoon. Went ashore to check in with the Armada(The Chilean Navy monitor every boat that moves) and the girls took a bus into the bustling town of Aysen. They have just returned with plans for a shopping trip tomorrow.

Anchored in Caleta Gato towards the western end of Seno Aysen. Overcast dawn and Aleko, on Beduin, said that we were due for rain later in the day. HOwever we had a good northerly wind so both boats cast off their moorings from the rocks, up anchored and hoisted white sails. Headed south, into Canal Ferronave here we said our farewells to Beduin. He headed south and we pointed east into Seno Aysen. We found the recommended thermal springs where the water bubbles out of the ground at 50 degrees C. Unfortunately there is no close anchorage, the water close by being over 100 metres deep, and although I did offer to heave-to and wait on the boat while the ladies rowed ashore for an open air turkish bath, they declined the offer. It was, by this time, gusting up to 25 knots and raining fairly heavily so I guess I could understand their reluctance to take advantage of this once-in-a-lifetime opportunity. So we headed to this very sheltered caleta, hopefully to have a quiet night and let the rain pass by.

Still anchored in Caleta La Poza, Puerto Aguirre. Landlubbering. Trainers on, and off we set to explore by foot the triangular island (roughly 3 miles each side) of Las Huichas, which has three small towns and a population of 1,800. Just at our landing place is a small national park reserve, with labels on some of the native trees and shrubs. We noted Magellan and Darwin seem to feature in many names.

The towns are connected by a narrow, lock block road, and beside the road is a bicycle lane! There are several smart looking view points with shelter huts and ....bike racks(!). Disappointingly, we saw no one was using a bicycle. It reminded me of the past, happy, EU days of spend, spend, spend! Lots of boat repairs were being made on the shoreline, and some folk were tending their veg. garden. We were surprised by how advanced the gardens were for this time of the year. Slowly the day got hotter and hotter, and we began to roast. Parched, we sought a shop to buy a drink, however all shops, including restaurants, were shut for lunch. Obviously the locals take their 2 hour lunch break very seriously. Returning to the boat, Colin decided to have a swim around Ithaka. He didn't dawdle.

Anchored in Caleta La Poza, Puerto Aguirre. Another great day's sailing. Left Caleta Canal at 0930, a flat calm, sun lit dawn, imperial cormorants breaking the silence as they struggle to reach take-off speed, a pair of colourful ducks slipping silently along the rocky shore. We recovered the shore lines, hauled in 90m of chain, set main and yankee and drifted out of the caleta. Soon picked up a northerly . Would it last? A cup of tea later it was still on. Up went the spinnaker, and up it stayed for the next 4 hours. We arrived at Puerto Aguirre mid afternoon, anchored of the rocks in quiet Caleta La Poza and reversed in setting the stern lines to trees on the shore. A walk ashore hoping for a small hostelry to quench our thirst. Many hostelries......, all closed. We finally found one with an explanatory sign which, roughly translated, said, "closed today because of the local elections". Elections are held on Sundays here and the sale of alcohol is banned on election days. We found an open mini supermarket and, because we had a backpack which would hide our illicit purchase, the owner agreed to sell us a six pack of Escudos. We returned to the boat, and together with Aleko from Beduin, toasted another wonderful day in the Chilean channels.

Anchored in Caleta Canal on Isla Canal. Big regatta day to-day. 2 entries. Beduin and Ithaka. (David and Goliath). It was nip and tuck all the way from Estero Arboles Espectrales after a le mans-start with both boats raising their anchors and departing under sail. Ithaka got the edge leaving the Caleta as Beduin had to stop to collect his crab pot (complete with crab). Then the 15 knot southerly came and both boats were going well. Ithaka had the edge again but then Beduin hoisted his monstrous genoa and started to claw back. Then it all went light. Drifting. Ithaka tacked off onto port heading for a patch of wind to the right. Beduin continued to drift shorewards and had to resort to the emergency engine to get clear of the rocks. The southerly 15 knots come back and an hour later both boats were within spitting distance. Ithaka cocked up the tack getting running backstays, staysail sheets and yankee sheets all muddled up. Beduin crossed on starboard. Ithaka coudn't match the Nich 32s pointing ability and had to tack off the shore. Beduin sailed on found a lift and soon was a speck on the sunny horizon. Ithaka retired with grace, started the engine and both boats anchored in beautiful Caleta Canal. Crab, freshly baked bread and Chilean Sauvignon Blanc. Great Day!

Anchored in Estero Arboles Espectrales, on Isla Benjamin. Ana here, again. Cloudy day, with the wind shifting to the west. Some motoring and mostly sailing (even for a short time with the spinnaker up!). Spotted a number of pelican colonies and one group of seals making a big racket. Best bit of the day for me was when Janet and I rowed in the dinghy up the small creek at the head of the inlet, which is navigable at high water. Prestine, dense forest with a number of plants and 2 bird types neither of us have seen before.

Anchored in Caleta Valverde. Ana here. We have had a big high sitting over us for the past two days, so the gentle winds, flat seas and the sunshine have made sailing ideal. And always the majestic snow capped Andes range in view to the east of us. Divine.

Yesterday we tied up to a fisherman's rope in a very peaceful, little anchorage, and spent the day exploring the coast on foot. No human habitation for miles. Had a wash in a small, shallow stream which was warmed by the sun, surrounded by silence, apart for the occasional bird call or frog croak. I vote it my favorite bathroom.

One significant pleasure of cruising is meeting other sailors and locals. Over the past few days we have been in company of another yacht, a 1964 Nicholson 32, owned by Aleko, a shy, single handed Greek sailor. Despite her age, the boat has graceful lines, and Aleko sails her with great skill. He spent the last 7 months (over the winter) sailing north through Patagonia, and now he plans to sail southwards and return home to Greece. He has taught us how to make soft cheese, salted tuna marinade, and a crab trap.

Janet, Colin's sister, has been great company,and her sewing skills have been very much appreciated, mending and fixing things from the jobs box. Bread and carrot cake made today.

Anchored in Melinka. Crossed the Golfo Corcovado overnight last night in light headwinds. Very pleasant sail with a full moon but cold - hats, gloves, long johns, full waterproofs. Porridge for breakfast warmed us up. Janet and Ana now catching up on their sleep. We will visit the town and then move onto a quieter caleta (anchorage) this afternoon. We enjoyed the island of Chiloe, its lush green fields, wooded hills, quiet inlets and many places to buy fruit and veg. The wooden houses and churches are works of art in their own ways. We did not enjoy the many, many salmonera (salmon farms)which fill all the inlets and even extend out into the straights between the islands, and the associated plastic rubbish which adorns every beach. Fish farming seems to be the right thing to do as there is no , in my mind, that the wild fish are being fished to extinction and the oceans turned into deserts. However, in the Chiloe area it seems to be too intensive. Earlier this year 28000 tonnes of fish died, and were subsequently dumped in the sea causing further environmental pollution, because of the warmer than usual water (el nino). Worse still, these are operated by foreign rather than Chilean companies who are benefiting from what seems to be a very poorly regulated industry From now on we are expecting harsher scenery and harsher weather. The snow covered Andes are always just to our east and the SE wind is blowing straight from them this morning. Yesterday I bought a typical knitted chilean hat with ear flaps. I've been wearing it ever since!

Anchored in SW Corner of Quellon Anchorage away from the hustle and bustle of the fishing port. Left Estero Huildad at first light to try to beat the tide but unsuccessful. Spring tides and a cold 25 knot from the south made for some intersting waves on the approach to Quellon. Ashore in Quellon this afternoon to check in with the Armada (Chilean Navy) We have to do this daily by e mail and in person when we arrive in a port which has an Armada office. Stocked up with provisions. The meat, veg and fruit here are fantastic. We will not see their like again in South America. Wind died away now leaving a blood red sunset. Hoping for a quiet night.

Anchored in Estero Huildad just north of Perto Quellon on Isla Chiloe. Short sail today, well, mainly a motor as the wind was fitful. Explored the little settlement in Pailad this morning before we left. A school, a large Gymnasium, a beautiful wooden church but no people. It was rather like the Marie Celeste. Lots of birds though including black necked swans with cygnets. The island is largely forested here reminding us very much of the New Zealand bush.

Anchored in Estero Pailad, a most beautiful creek on the Island of Chiloe. Sailed here today from Anihue Island where we had weathered a gale yesterday. Great sail with cold squally winds from the west mainly 20 kts but up to 30 occasionally. Enjoyed tacking up the straight between Chiloe and Isla Tranqui in the company of Aleko, on a Nicholson 32, Beduin, a single hander who we met in Puerto Montt and who is heading back to Europe via the Beagle Channel.

Anchored in Mechuque Island 50 miles south of Puerto Montt. We left Puerto Montt at 0900 this morning. Light breeze from the North made for slow progress and we motored much of the way. However the sunny weather was good and we were able to re aquaint ourselves with the boat and life on the sea. Good to have finally got away from the yard and marina, although we enjoyed our time there, and met many new friends, mainly on their way to French Polynesia and further west.

Ana and Colin back in Chile after a few months with family and friend in Scotland. Ithaka now in the water in Reloncavi Marina at Puerto Montt. Weather alternating between dreich drizzle and low cloud and bright spring days with warm sunshine. We have been joined by Colin's sister Janet who will be sailing with us for a few weeks. Planning to leave tomorrow or Sunday and start heading south.

Colin and Ana now back in Chile. Spent an amazing time in Peru. 5 day Salkantay trek through stunning scenery ending up at Machu Picchu, truly a wonder of the world. We wonder what the Inka Civilisation would have achieved had the Spanish not wiped it out in the 1500s. Then on to glistening Arequipa, it's elegant colonial buildings built from Sillar stone and shining in the sunshine. We spent three days in the Colca Canyon, 1100metres down and very hard on the ageing knees. However, we seem to be able to keep pace with our twenty something year old companions so feel quite pleased with ourselves. Now in Arika at sea level again and good to smell the Pacific salt air. We fly to Santiago on Wednesday and on to Edinburgh on Thursday. Looking forward to family, friends, haggis, whisky and the referendum on Britain's membership of the EU.

Colin and Ana now in Puna, Peru, on the shores of lake Titikaka. Moving to Cusco tomorrow. Spent 4 days in the Bolivian, Amazon, jungle. So beautiful. Went looking for big cats and found monkeys. Biked the Death Road, 3500m descent from cold mountains to steamy jungle. Ithaka well in Puerto Montt. Ciao. C and A.

Colin and Ana now in Bolivia. Spent several days exploring the Salar de Uyuni, the biggest salt flat in the world. Amazing. Now enjoying genteel, colonial Sucre, the one time capital of Bolivia, before descending into the Amazon jungle in a few days time. No news about Ithaka so assuming she is wellin Puerto Montt.

Puerto Montt. We are on the hard and slowly working away at putting Ithaka to bed for 6 months. Plenty of socialising with several other cruising boats who have been in the south and are either laying their boats up for the winter or heading on northwest to Easter Island and Polynesia. PM is a busy industrial town, lots of ships and boats. There are three marina but only this one, Reloncavi, has a travel lift. Several of the other yachts are Aluminium so Ithakafeels at home in their company. Many of the cruisers are French. Westerly Serenade is here afloat but uninhabited as Frankhas returned to Australia. We didn't meet him but will do so when we return in September. Weather is cool and sometimes windy but when the sun does emerge it can still be very pleasant.

Anchored in Estero Chope, on Isla Puluqui, about 20 nm from Puerto Montt.

This morning while leaving Caleta Juan Pedro we had a rapidly falling 7m tide, so very cautiously felt our way out via the narrow, shallow channel, into open water. It was a relief to be in deep water once again. A blue sky, a gentle breeze and a flat sea, made wonderful conditions for flying the spinnaker for most of the day. Still getting used to seeing the stunning, snow capped Andes range in the distance.

Anchored in Caleta Juan Pedro, Isla Buta Chaques. The weather continues. No wind in the morning meaning a n hour or so of engine, watermaking and charging. Then a light southerly picking up to 12-15 knts towards mid afternoon. Just arrived at another sheltered anchorage. One whale sighted today, Blue we think.

Anchored in Estero Pundo off Los Angeles..., Yes that's correct, Los Angeles. This one has a population of a few hundred and is the only town on Isla Quehui. Went for a row ashore to buy bread and ended up buying grapes and a large jar of homemade jam as well. Then a walk up the hill to be greeted by a fantastic view of snow covered Andes to the east and the setting sun in the west. Another fantastic clear blue autumn day.

Moored up in a very small marina called Marina Quinched. Have come here in easy day sails via Mechuque, a lovely little island with a pretty village, where there are boatbuilders building the traditional wooden fishing boats. We had a Curanto, the local dish, consisting of Mussels, Chicken, pork, sausages, potatoes and a couple of dumplings with different fillings, all cooked in a pit in the ground filled with hot rocks. Just the same as everywhere else we've been in the Pacific! Then we moved on to Dalcahue, a bigger town on the main island of Chiloe, bustling with fishing boats, Chilean tourists and even another yacht. We visited the beautiful wooden church. These churches are a speciality of this area. Very big and built completely with chiseled joints, many variations of dovetail, and no nails. They are clad in cedar shingles. We had an uncomfortable night in the strong current and 5 metre tide, had to re anchor at 3 am so not that much sleep. Should be OK tonight though, nicely tied to the dock.

At anchor in Bahia Linao, East Lagoon. Perfect shelter, only accessible at half to high tide. Main bay is full of salmon and oyster farms - not sure whether these are a good thing or not but they do not improve the scenery. We were met by a pod of 6 very large whales as we entered this bay the day before yesterday. Not sure of type - maybe Blue. One came quite close and was definitely wider and longer than Ithaka. It's blow hole was about a foot in diameter. Went for a walk along the shore and then along a very dusty road into the village of Linao. A lot of plastic on the beach and several discarded boats. Plastic flowers adorn every grave in the cemetry. Moving on south today. Would return here, only for the peace and shelter of the east lagoon.

Motoring east through Chanel de Chacou between the mainland and Isla Grande de Chiloe. A very light cool southeasterly head wind, brilliant autumn sunshine, seals, sealions, squadrons of pelicans, the odd lone dolphin leaping high. Brightly painted wooden fishing boats, compressors chugging, surface supply diving the banks for shellfish. Slack water now but only for minutes, soon we will be tearing along at 10 knots into Golfo de Ancud. And best of all this morning, the cloud on the eastern horizon firming into snow covered mountains, the Andes, still far away but beginning to dominate the eastern skyline.

We spent yesterday and last night anchored off the town of Ancud. We liked it. Bustling, colourful, not touristy. People getting their supplies in after the weekend. This is the main town on Chiloe. We managed to buy and load 120 litres of diesel onto Ithaka. A jerrycan job and lots of rowing backwards and forwards in the dinghy. Met a girl from Fiji on walkabout, feeling guilty she was not with her family in cyclone torn Lautoka. We wondered how our Fijian friends fared in Fulaga. (any update from anyone?). We woke this morning to the wash of the fishing boats leaving port, and the smell of woodsmoke hanging in the bay.

Rowed ashore this morning to check out with the Armada (Chilean Navy). You have to report in at every port and present your paperwork. They produce a Zarpe, an authorisation for you to proceed along the "agreed route". You have to give your ETA at the next port and radio in, or e mail your position twice per day. We find it all quite demanding and so different from the other side of the Pacific. We will have to get used to it. We were pulled up by a white capped, young rating yesterday, some would say correctly, for not using lifejackets in the dinghy.

We hope to seek out a quiet anchorage a few miles south of the north eastern tip of Chiloe later this afternoon, as there is unlikely to be any sailable wind, the downside of the current high pressure dominated weather.

Ithaka is on the move again, this time with just Colin and Ana on board and feeling rather quiet. We left Marina la Estancilla, Valdivia, on Friday morning and caught the last of the ebb down the river and out of Bahia Corral. As forecast, there was little wind all through Friday and we motor-sailed along the coast south in warm sunshine. A front came through during Friday night bringing the northerlies (and unfortunately the rain and squalls) we needed to blow us down to the entrance to Canal de Chacao. We slowed down off the entrance to allow the rain to clear and the vis to improve, then turned south to Bahia de Ancud. We hoped to anchor off the town of Ancud but as we turned into the bay we met a 1m chop and 25 - 30 knots so continued west to find more shelter finally anchoring here 3 miles from the town. We had a peaceful night. Now going to see if we can remember how to blow up the dinghy and row ashore. The last time we did this was in New Caledonia a few lifetimes ago!

Sailed up the river yesterday and now moored up in Marina la Estancilla. Customs, Armada and Immigration completed but still waiting for Health and Biosecuity. This is a small Marina, non profit making and part of the Valdivia Yacht Club. It is in a beautiful wooded stretch of the river, very quiet and peaceful. Free showers and laundry. We are catching up with the rest of the world, skyping and e mailing, the long passage beginning to recede into memory. Lucas departs for Buenos Aires and his family tomorrow, a 36 hour trip by bus across the continent.

On passage to Valdivia, Chile Day 43 Arrival The wind was cool and the waves short and steep as we closed on the coast. Soon we could distinguish Punta Gatera, until then only a waypoint on the chart plotter. The wind moderated and we shook out reefs and unfurled the yankee, reaching into the lee of the headland and slowly releasing ourselves from the ocean's rhythm. Tree clad hills, occasional buildings, a man fishing with a long pole from a wooden boat, short mast, triangular white sail. Many, many birds, petrels swooping diving, others sitting in flocks on the surface. And then a roaring bellow just behind us. Lucas and I looked back to see a huge grey back, rise gently and then an eruption of steam as a great whale breached. This was a big whale, longer than us. We couldn't identify the type but felt privileged to have received his welcome.

We rounded Punta Gonzalo and entered Bahia Corral, a large sheltered stretch of water. Now there were other birds welcoming us, scores of pelicans, some flying in lines intent on their destination, another flock diving for fish. Shags, penguins, gulls and a baby sealion cavorting in our wake. What a change from the barren ocean of a few hours before.

We found a small sheltered bay, downed the sails, and drifted while we extricated the main anchor from its ocean stowage in the fore cabin and hoisted it onto the deck, then attached it to the chain and recovered it onto the bow roller, ready now for use. Then continued motoring, past a beach filled with the colour, chatter, sun umbrellas, and clamour of summer holiday, past a pier with ice cream shop, a ferryboat teeming with people, and into the lee of Isla Mansera. The depth came down and down and we turned into the light breeze and dropped the anchor in 2.2 metres, the centreboard actually touching the sand, making our first physical connection with Chile.

Lunch in the cockpit, the table flat and steady, the beer cool and level, watching and listening to the local chatter 100 metres away on the shore. Families walking, kids diving and swimming, a chainsaw, a digger, the sounds very distinct and so different to the those of the ocean.

Then a long afternoon siesta. A sleep. A long, long sleep.

We awoke as the stars were appearing, the silence, deafening. A celebratory meal, the last of the vacuum packed venison. Champagne, and many toasts to all of you who have supported and helped us. A bottle of Chilean Wine. +A game of chess, mistakes, rather than strategy driving the outcome.

Tomorrow, we will head up the river to Valdivia, marinas, customs and immigration, internet, phones, laundry and showers, ATMs, passwords, but tonight we enjoy the quiet and peace, a long ocean passage well completed.

John Masefield says it all, I quote the last verse of Sea Fever but you need to read the lot: I must go down to the seas again to the vagrant gypsy life.

To the gull's way and the whale's way where the wind's like a whetted knife; And all I ask is a merry yarn from a laughing fellow-rover, And quiet sleep and a sweet dream when the long trick's over.

On passage to Valdivia, Chile Day 42 "Land Ahoy!" I heard through dreams and sleep. I struggled out of twisted duvet and to the companion way dressed only in underpants! Met Lucas, in similar attire, coming from the other cabin.

On deck the wind was cold, indeed bracing on bare flesh. Ithaka was also modestly attired, double reefed main and staysail, corkscrewing through the quartering sea, the wind whistling in the rig, the waves and spray sluicing the deck.

We looked to the east and watched the rising sun pick out, above the waves and spume, distant hills, hints of green instead of grey, a new dawn, a new country, a new continent.

We smiled at each other, not too many words, each feeling the satisfaction of a job nearly done, the recognition of an end, and the uncertainty and excitement of a new beginning.

The Wandering Albatross quartered the ocean in our wake. An aerial sign-off? A handover to his distant cousin, the Condor, soaring on the Andesian currents to the east? I thanked him for his watch and our safe delivery.

Earlier this morning I had our last radio sched with Taupo Maritime and Northland Radios, and with Graham and Dianne on Maunie. They too have watched over us and lived this passage, day by day, with us.

A fishing boat, the first we have seen since leaving Cape Colville, rolled its way towards us, took in the scene and moved on south, VALDIVIA in large letters on her stern. No words, no greeting, but our presence acknowledged, another watch started.

Colin

On passage to Valdivia, Chile Day 41 So what do I think about when hand steering for 3 hours from midnight, in the pitch dark, with only the 3 illuminated digital navigational dials to keep me company? I like to imagine visiting family and friends. In my mind's eye I visit them, perhaps in their home, or where ever it is I know them well. I can sometimes smell the place or even hear the sounds of their surroundings. I like to sit down beside them. Make sure their OK. I bring three small bags for them, containing peace, happiness and love. I wonder if they ever know I have been there, or find these bags. Ana

On passage to Valdivia, Chile Colin here again. Perhaps there'll be a squall.

Woke up from a deep sleep to hear Ana chatting with Graham on the radio, time 0130. Lay in my bunk half listening to the conversation and the other half listening and feeling the motion of the boat. It feels "boisterous", the boat leaping off each wave and often rounding up with creaks and groans, then falling back onto course under persuasion from the windpilot. Bruce's forecast, I seem to remember, was for 18 to 23 knots with gusts to 25. I begin to think a 2nd reef in the main would be prudent. Ana finishes her radio sched and confirms that the wind has been building and at times hitting 27 knots, and she has already reduced the goosewinged yankee (headsail) to 40%. Boat plunging along at 8 knots. 2nd reef it is then, even if only to redress the balance between main and headsail.

I get geared up. Full Musto foul weather gear, Dubarry boots, and Peter Blake red socks, lifejacket and harness, headtorch, knife. At companionway clip on, out into cockpit, prepare all the control lines, Ana out too, clipped on. Transfer Yankee from pole on windward side to leeside. Go aft and adjust windpilot to sail at 45 degrees to the wind, Ithaka dutifully rounds up. Ana releases vang, and lowers main halyard while I clip onto jackstays which run the length of the boat and make my way to the mast. Boat rolling in cross seas now. Double clip myself onto shroud. 2nd reef cringle within reach, grab it and hook it on to bull horn at forward end of boom. Ana starts to winch in reefing pennant. It goes tight but dosn't look quite right. She leaves it and hauls the halyard tight again anyway. I transfer myself across the boat to the port side by way of a cross jackstay, using two carabinas so always clipped on. Ana pulls the mainsheet in and I investigate the problem. The reefing pennant has caught up on the back of the sail. Ana releases the tension and I stand up, rolling with the boat, to reach the muddle at the end of the boom and sort it out. All good, Ana re-tensions the reefing pennant. Back in the cockpit, mainsheet out and vang on. Return windpilot to its pre-reef setting, Ithaka bears away and settles on her downwind course. Transfer the yankee from the port side back onto the pole and release the full sail from the furler. Cockpit now resembles a pot of spaghetti. Tidy up, looking forward to a nice cup of tea. Go below to put kettle on. Time 0300.

Boat remarkably quiet. No rushing noises. No rounding up. Check the windspeed. 10 knots!!. Boatspeed, less than 5!...........

Need to take a reef out of the main then, maybe both................. Have a cup of tea first, perhaps there'll be a squall.

Just in case you think we are on some luxury pleasure cruise!

On passage to Valdivia, Chile Colin here! Wow, what a busy Sunday. It started at midnight when I came on watch. We were trickling along at about 4 knots in the right direction which was nice after the frustrating calms of the day before.

Looked up to see the most amazing sky, just full of stars, and realised that, with the impending low pressure, this would probably be the last opportunity to use sextant to interact with them. It's one thing to see these heavenly bodies, it becomes more personal when you learn their names, but when you use them, measure their altitudes, bring their sparkling forms down to the horizon, stars which are millions of light years away, then the enormity of the universe and the connectivity of everything within it, becomes very, very real. Then comes the awesome realisation...., how small and insignificant I am, Ithaka is, this planet earth is. How miniscule my life is in the overall machine which is the universe, and which is progressing just as it should, either with me, or without me.

So Lucas and I took three star sights, Acrux (in the Southern Cross), Antares (in the constellation of Scorpio) and Regulus (in the constellation of Leo). You don't get much time for star sights, just the brief period of twilight when you can see both star and horizon. The stars faded but there were still wonders overhead, Jupiter and Venus. Lucas caught them, one by one, in the sextant mirror and brought them down to the hardening horizon. And finally we were left with our closest heavenly companion, the moon herself, hanging in the lightening sky, and we caught her and brought her, too, down to the horizon. What a wonderful way to greet the dawn.

Later on I decided to give the new (second hand)spinnaker another go. We had tried it a few weeks back, it had proved difficult to set, and I had concluded that it was too big and would require amputation once the sewing machine was back to full health. However, more thought had convinced me that we needed to give it another chance before committing to surgery. It is a traditional tri-radial symetric sail but we started by flying it from the stubby bowsprit in assymetric fashion with the sheeting position further forward than before. We unfurled it expecting the worst but it immediately filled and stabilised....Hmmm! The speed climbed from 3 to 5 knots. We adjusted the course up and down and it still hung in there, solid. OK, time for the pole. We rigged it, right down low, and transferred the windward clew onto it. Still good, we altered course, dead downwind and squared the pole back, still there and working. We gave it 4 hours to collapse, or wrap round the forestay, or do all the things that wayward spinnakers usually do but it did none of these, and we only put it to bed when we had to gybe. So, we'll not send it to the surgeon yet. Looks like it might be a good'un.

On passage to Valdivia, Chile Day 38. Ana here. We were becalmed for much of the day, with no sails up. We sunned ourselves, and aired the bedding. It felt almost like being in the tropics again. Lucas even went for a dip in the sea. Not too cold, he told us. I stood on shark watch.

Later Colin, with Lucas and I pulling on various ropes to help stablilise it, took the faulty wind generator off the back gantry. No mean feat with Colin perched on the gantry, and the heavy generator with 1.2m propellor dangling from the main halyard. We turned the engine on and motored at 5 knots to try to reduce the rolling in the sloppy swell. The two engineers found the cause of the problem almost immediately, burnt out slip ring brush connection, they tell me. They are able to repair it, but it is unlikely that we will have another calm patch in order to reinstall it, and make sure it was the only fault. Murphy's Law, and all that.

With just over 600 miles to go to Valdivia, we're busy eating our way through the vegetables and fruit. We have a rather large amount of potatoes to go through, much to the delight of C. and L. I tolerate them, just. However, L. has introduced us to the art of making Hash Brownies with a hint of rosemary, and I have to say they are rather good. Carrots and cabbage are still on the menu. Beef, lamb and venison are still OK in their vacuum packs in the fridge.

The bird life is slowly increasing, in numbers but not in variety. C. and I visited the excellent Albatross Center in Dunedin while in NZ, and saw with horror, a display of a huge amount of plastic found in the stomachs of 1 adult and her chick. Since then, we have made sure not even a tiny amount of plastic leaves Ithaka. Instead we place it in a used plastic milk bottle with a lid. It's amazing how much a bottle can hold. A great solution for storing rubbish on a boat (Thanks, Jose of S/V Stravaig, Savusavu).

On passage to Valdivia, Chile Well we came out of the front and had a few hours of relaxed sailing in good winds. Then we met a high pressure system, the wind died and, after a few hours of slatting and banging, we took down the sails and tied the wheel amidships.

Relaxing evening meal of venison stew and fried potatoes washed down with a beer. Then a couple of hilarious rounds of Doh Cranium, which proved that we all have a long way to go in sculpting. Lucas's fridge, complete with opening door and bottle inside failed to make any impression on Colin and Ana, the words on the card, under the food and drink section, were "cold beer"!. For those of you unfamiliar with this "international board game", a hand made Christmas Present from Maunie, the players take it in turns to make a 2 minute playdoh sculpture depicting the word on the card which is in one of 6 categories. The other players guess what the "sculpture" is and progress across the board, a chart of the Pacific, accordingly.

And then we practiced sleeping - very good!

On passage to Valdivia, Chile Spent the day managing the latest front. Soon after a grey, grey dawn, the wind picked up to the mid twenties gusting low thirties. We reached under double reefed main and double reefed staysail, in short, steep, confused seas, averaging 7.5 knots. Ana had the morning watch (0600 - 1000) and elected to hand steer, despite the drizzle, rather than do battle with the windpilot. She also just enjoys steering, particularly when there are waves to dodge and surf on. It continued to rain so, once Ana had finished enjoying the elements, we took a hard line with the windpilot and got her in order, then retired below, except for an occasional foray to the binnacle to check the course and wind direction.

Lucas made bread and I got halfway through the making of the Chilean courtesy flag. Ana caught up on sleep! At dusk the front passed or so we are led to believe. Lucas and Ana decided they needed to earn their dinner and went out on deck with much bravado to "get the boat moving". Reefs came out poles went up. Preventers on, running backstays off. Meanwhile, I stayed in the dry making coleslaw and potato salad to go with lamb cutlets. They came back in, wet and battle weary an hour later, but feeling very pleased with themselves. THe boat was indeed moving. It lasted long enough to have a lovely dinner. Then Ana and I went out to gybe everything as the wind had finally shifted to the southwest. It is still raining.

Good news from Bruce the Weather today. The next low pressure system, hopefully our last for this passage, is taking a more southerly route and the predicted gales on its northern perimeter, are going further south with it. This means that we can "ease" south, as Bruce puts it, so we are "easing", and hopefully will get a good run into Valdivia from the west, in few days time. The log passed 5000 nm today, what a long way! Thank you all for your YIT comments and e mails. It is great to have so much support, from so many parts of the globe.

On passage to Valdivia, Chile We ran the engine for 4 hours yesterday and then the wind began to fill in. The sun came out and we had a glorious few hours. Ana and I even managed some sunbathing on the foredeck! Also managed to dig deep into the forecabin storage area (which meant removing everything we are storing on the bunk)and dug out a large French tricolour that used to grace the stern of Ithaka in her former life BC&A. The challenge is to construct a chilean courtesy flag from it (sacre bleu!). Would be easier if the sewing machine was working, but still waiting on another part from the sewing depot in Wellington so this will be a hand sew challenge.

THe next front is now beginning to make its presence felt. We are back to double reefed main and staysail, and hoping we don't need the third reef before daylight.

Good to hear Maunie again tonight on 16mHz and also Red. We could hear you quite clearly Fran, Sorry you couldn't hear us but hope you're having a good time on Barrier.

On passage to Valdivia, Chile .

It's 0400 and I've just come in from the cockpit where I have been coaxing Ithaka into motion. The wind is light and variable. just 7 knots. The are 0.5 metre are on top of a 2 metre swell. The waves and swell contrive to knock the wind out of the sails just as you think you've got her going again and the flap, bang, crash of the rig goes through you, right to your core. It is a grey dawn, grey sea, grey sky, grey boat. A cup of cocoa and some of yesterdays bread with peanut butter help to get me through this untimely watch......

30 minutes later, just come in again, the wind has moved forward and all the sails needed trimming for the new direction. We are now nearly on course and managing 3.8 knots, but only for now, in another 10 minutes it will all change again. A fine line of red appears along the eastern horizon, our sunrise.

0600. Give in. Wind now only 3 knots Turn on the engine just to get some peace from the incessant slatting of the sails and rig. Bring on the next front!

On passage to Valdivia, Chile .

It's 0400 and I've just come in from the cockpit where I have been coaxing Ithaka into motion. The wind is light and variable. just 7 knots. The are 0.5 metre are on top of a 2 metre swell. The waves and swell contrive to knock the wind out of the sails just as you think you've got her going again and the flap, bang, crash of the rig goes through you, right to your core. It is a grey dawn, grey sea, grey sky, grey boat. A cup of cocoa and some of yesterdays bread with peanut butter help to get me through this untimely watch......

30 minutes later, just come in again, the wind has moved forward and all the sails needed trimming for the new direction. We are now nearly on course and managing 3.8 knots, but only for now, in another 10 minutes it will all change again. A fine line of red appears along the eastern horizon, our sunrise.

0600. Give in. Wind now only 3 knots Turn on the engine just to get some peace from the incessant slatting of the sails and rig. Bring on the next front!

On passage to Valdivia, Chile from Auckland NZ.

The big tropical depression that has been defining our weather for several days passed to our south this morning leaving us with a southerly wind which is colder and less humid. We even had sunshine for a few hours before the grey clouds returned. With the depression well on its way we were able to set an east-south-east couguinea pigrse which will gradually take us to the latitude of Valdivia. There will be a "hold" latitude at about 37.5 south to allow another front to pass. Then we will move into the "end game" and the approach to the coast. I wonder if there is material here for a new computer game, something like "weatherman".......or perhaps it's already there......or maybe this is a computer game......

A word on communications. We are still having a daily call with Graham and Dianne on Maunie, and Lisa and Lester on Obsession when they are out at weekends. We are 4000 miles away, and nearly in Chile, a 1/4 of the way around the globe so I find this astounding. For those interested, we have now moved up to 16MHz and have been receiving advice on frequency choice from Peter of Northland Radio. We have also been able to help him test his equipment and antennae - he dosn't often get to speak to yachts this far away. We also continue to have an evening sched with Taupo Maritime Radio, this still on 8 Mhz. Yesterday we also used our Sat phone for voice comms for the first time. We phoned Grayson on his birthday and Lucas phoned his mum in Argentina. The ability to maintain these communications has made us feel much more confident, and is, much safer. Thank you so much Maunie, Obsession and Kiapa, and Northland for your support.

On passage to Valdivia, Chile from Auckland NZ.

Day 32, Double special day today.

Today is Grayson's 4th birthday. Our eldest grandson. It's hard being here and not being there. It's hard for us but maybe not yet for him. He will have plenty of excitement and plenty of presents. He will not be missing his Nana and Pops who have never been there for his birthdays. Ana and I both come from families whose grandparents were remote, shady background figures. Our daughters never really knew their grandparents, the world is too big and they lived too far away. We would like to do a little better. Make even a small enduring impact on their lives and futures, by spending time with them. They are big stars on our eastern horizon.

Today is also Burn's Day. The day when the Scots celebrate the life and work of Robert (Rabbie) Burns often by taking part in a Burns Supper. Burns was a man whose fame followed his death but whose notoriety preceded it. He was a man of the people, a man who enjoyed life, a man who enjoyed a drink, and more than a few women, but a man who delved deep into the character, morals and ethics of those he chose to portray in his work. He managed to make an enduring impact.

So Grayson and Rabbie, a toast to you both.

Ithaka's Burns Supper will not be featuring Haggis this year.

Nae haggis for us the nicht. Weel ha' venison tho wi tatties, neeps, beets an' oatcakes and, o' course, twa drams, ane for each o' thee, tae wash it a' doon.

And, in Rabbie's words, a toast to the world, for the sake of the grandchildren.

Then let us pray that come it may, As come it will for a' that, That sense and worth, o'er a' the earth, May bear the gree, an' a' that.

For a' that, an' a' that, It's coming yet for a' that, That man to man, the warld o'er, Shall brothers be for a' that.

From A MAN'S A MAN FOR A' THAT by Robert Burns 1759 - 1796

On passage to Valdivia, Chile from Auckland NZ.

Day 31. Ana here, again. Today my watch begins at midnight, and I know before rising from Ithaka's bucking and rolling, that the wind has picked up suddenly. I pause after sitting up, to give myself the chance to wake up properly. If I don't have my wits about me, I'll be torpedoed from one side of the boat to the other, adding bruises to bruises.

I wedge myself in the companionway alcove to don sailing boots, wet weather gear, hat, head torch, sailing gloves and life jacket, meanwhile Lucas gives a hand over. Outside in the cockpit, there is an overwhelming sound of water hissing, slapping and gurgling on Ithaka's sides, together with a slight humming from the rigging. Thick clouds obliterate all 'heavenly bodies' (a beautiful term I have learnt from sextant notes!). However due to the full moon, there is a gloaming similar to the summer midnight sky at home in Aberdeenshire. I can see quite clearly the entire deck and sails, and that the sea has not yet had a chance to build up.

I furl the Yankee (jib) completely, and ease the staysail. Ithaka's dance turns quickly from an energetic reel to a stately strathspey. With a hop and a skip, she moves with purpose, eastwards.

On passage to Valdivia, Chile from Auckland NZ.

Day 30. Ana here. Lucas hails me for my watch at 3am today. Despite the ungodly hour, it's a popular watch with us all because of the sunrise. I head for the steering seat in the cockpit with a hot builder's tea in hand. The seat, and the rest of the decking is slightly, but not unpleasantly damp from the dew. With only 2 knots of variable wind, the sea is glassy, but moving sinuously, constantly. The sky holds tones of dark greys, and only loyal Venus shines in the sky. Dark, heavy clouds, which I view with suspicion, are behind and to the west of us. However the intermittent cat's paws indicate they have no punch. The scene slowly changes, but not the dramatic,"OMG, would you look at that!" type, more subtle, washed pinks and blues. Today there is another band of clouds lying in the east, acting as a three quarter raised curtain, screening the sun, and only allowing a ribbon of pink to show through. Gradually a line of silver appears on the sea's horizon, and spreads towards us. Sooty, so called because she is a Sooty Shearwater, appears. Her effortless movements only highlight the silence of the scene.

On passage to Valdivia, Chile from Auckland NZ.

Thursday 21st January, 0600 ships time, I am just finishing my night watch and looking forward to an hour's sleep before breakfast. The batteries are low, only 30%, owing to the knackered wind generator and to the northerly sector wind which has been heeling the boat, and its solar panels, away from the sun for the past few days. I had wanted to charge the batteries the night before but the crew had convinced me that I should let them sleep in peace.

So, it's the end of the night, time for the end of peace, I turn the key........the peace remains.....just a distant "click".....turn again, this time with more force and determination, now desiring the roar and rattle more than any peace on earth....nothing.

Mind in calculator mode. 100Ah remaining, solar gives us say 30 Ah per day, perhaps less with the heel. Fridge is the main user, 6A for 50% of the time is 72 Ah.......we'll have to turn off the fridge.......11 packs of vacuum packed meat, have to cook it all today, and the butter and cheese...... Water maker uses 30 Amps...no more water making....we only have half a tank...ration remaining fresh water... SSB on transmit uses 10 Amps....save for emergency radio transmissions...no more e mails....no more weather data....lose contact with Bruce the weatherman....miss the slot around the next tropical depression....gale......storm....bugger.

Beautiful sunrise, gentle breeze on the beam...make a cup of tea....read Nigel Calder's Boatowners Mechanical and Electrical Manual. Troubleshooting Chart 7-2. "If the solenoid makes a loud click (how loud is a click?)the starter motor is probably jammed...try turning the engine over...if it won't turn there may be water in the cylinders or the engine may have seized"...........bugger.

Lucas appears. Ana is awake. I spread doom and gloom all over crew and boat, like a virus, out of control.

Ana takes over all deck watches. Lucas and I get out the tools, the box of assorted wires, the electrical meter, circuit diagrams. The removable panels are removed. We start to apply some logic. We bounce ideas back and forth. 2 hours later we have the fault diagnosed - bad connection somewhere in a connector box inaccessibly placed on the engine block close to the inaccessible starter motor. We use a wire to bypass the box and screwdriver to short out the earth solenoid. Lucas crouches with two bare ends of wire, he counts down "3 , 2 , 1 , contact" and touches the bare ends together. The engine roars, the peace is shattered, we smile, we've got the bugger. Shut down engine, remove inaccessible screws holding inaccessible box, inside we find 2 inaccessible relays, one with green corrosion on terminals. We scrape and clean and squirt electronic cleaner everywhere, then re-assemble, re-cable tie wires, re-place engine box panels....and turn the key.

69 Amps, watermaker on, fridge on boost, kettle on, more tea, smiles all round, who needs peace?

On passage to Valdivia, Chile from Auckland NZ.

El aire de Chile finalmente esta llegando para hacerme escribir este reporte en mi querido idioma latinoamericano.(English below) Ayer fue para mi un día de los que llamo “Tipo 1”, un día con turnos de 10 a 14 y de 21 a 24hs. Los turnos determinan, en gran medida, los horarios en los que dormimos, especialmente cuando el tiempo es inclemente y, dada la forma en la que están organizados dichos turnos, se puede decir que tenemos tres tipos de días abordo, cada uno con sus caracteristicas particulares. Podríamos, inclusive, poner nombre propio a cada uno de estos tres tipos y regirnos por una semana inventada de tres días sino fuese por un pequeño detalle: que el significado de esos nombres sería distinto para cada uno de nosotros ya que en un momento dado cada uno esta viviendo un tipo de día distinto.

Hay solamente dos momentos a bordo, en los cuales indiscutiblemente los tres decidimos encontrarnos en el salón y estos son el almuerzo y la cena.

El recuerdo mas placentero que guardo del día de ayer es el de un rato durante la tarde en el que el barco navegaba sobre un mar traquilo, meciendonos suavemente y avanzando con rumbo firme, mientras adentro Ana trabajaba, en la mesa del salón, con sus mediciones de altitud del Sol para determinar nuestra posción, yo recostado en el sillon, resolvia problemas de ajedrez de un libro de Bobby Fisher, después de haber perdido tristemente un partido contra Colin y Colin, en la cocina, preparaba un delicioso estofado de carne con verduras y hongos para la cena.

The Chilean air is finally getting here to make me write this report in my dearest Latin American language.

Yesterday for me was what I call a day “Type 1”: a day with shifts from 10 to 14 and from 21 to 24hrs. The shifts determine, to a great extent, our sleeping schedule, specially when the weather gets rougher, and given the way these shifts are organized its fair to say that we have three types of days on board, each with its distinctive characteristics. We could could even give a proper name to each day and go by this three-day-week if it wasn't because these names would have a different meaning to each of us, since at a any given moment we are all living in a different type of day.

There are only two occasions during the day in which we inarguably decide to meet in the saloon, and those are lunch and dinner.

The nicest memory I keep from yesterday's day, is about some moments during the evening, when the boat was sailing on a calm sea, rocking us gently and progressing on a solid course, while inside Ana was working on the saloon's table to find the our position from her measurements of the sun's altitude, I was lying on the couch solving chess puzzles from a book by Bobby Fisher, after having lost sadly a match against Colin, and Colin in the galley, was cooking a delicious beef stew with vegetables and mushrooms to have for dinner.

On passage to Valdivia, Chile from Auckland NZ.

Blue desert. Are we the only 3 living beings left on this earth? The birds have gone. There is just blue....sea....and sky. We slide along in 20 knots of wind, just a little trimming required now and then to maintain our easterly course.

The tropical low, which caused me some lost sleep a week ago as I wondered how we would find our way past its gale force clutches, has been our driving force for the last 750 miles. The ogre became our friend thanks to Bruce's detailed directions which steered us through the weakest areas and then hitched us onto the system just ahead of the strong winds and rain. Consequently we have sailed the 750 miles under blue skies and in calm seas. Now our friend is moving away to the south and its sister is coming to join us in a few days time. Bruce is starting to work out our best strategy for hitching another ride.

We are receiving many comments through the YIT system and our e mail. Thank you so much. The contact and content means a lot. YIT does not give the e mail address of those sending comments so we are unable to reply unless we know your address already. If you would like us to have your address please include it in the text.

Ana here. After receiving an email yesterday from Paula, Lucas's mum, with the empanados Argentinean family recipe, Lucas and I decided to have another session of making them again. I noted the dough recipe is identical to my mum's Slovenian strudel dough, but without sugar. Three fillings were made. After about the 15th attempt, mine only began to resembled Lucas' perfectly formed empanados with fancy twisted edges. The gallery was a mess, but it was lovely to learn how to make them, and have the time to make them from scratch.

On passage to Valdivia, Chile from Auckland NZ.

Day 26. The days are flowing into each other, merging, watch follows watch, meal follows meal, cup of tea follows cup of tea.

Work, is out there in the cockpit, trimming sails and checking course and weather, or in here, at the chart table writing log, in the galley cooking, or fixing whatever needs fixing with tools or needles. Leisure is also out there, and in here, reading, playing the guitar, learning Spanish,and thinking, or not thinking. There is no end to it. It is a continuum. For now, this is our life.

I find that to think further forward than this life, to count the days, to work out how long to go, does not help. For the moment this is my life and I live within it, enjoying it for what it is and what it has to offer. To do otherwise is to introduce yearning and dissatisfaction and to downgrade part of what is a precious time.

I am reading a book, "The Shepherd's Life: A Tale of the Lake District" by James Rebaks (thank you Janet)in which he talks about his life as a fell farmer. He describes his feeling of being part of an enduring life, the life of the farm which started generations before and which will continue for generations to come, generations of people, generations of sheep, generations of the soil and the flora and fauna within the valley. He is satisfied with this life, he is proud to be a part of it, a part of the enduring life of the farm. But he realises that,of the millions of people who enjoy the lake district and even those who now call it their home (often their second home), there are very few who will understand either his satisfaction or his pride.

I wonder where my niche is, my valley, my part in something more enduring and bigger than me.

On passage to Valdivia, Chile from Auckland NZ.

Day 25 We've managed to avoid that tropical low, thanks to Bruce, our weather guru. Instead of thunder storms and blustery strong winds, we've had a cracking day of sailing, with blue skies, steady winds and flat sea, taking us eastwards. Today I decided to have a go at sextant calculations, and what with Lucas plying us with Spanish words, my head now hurts. It hasn't had to work like this for a long time.

At 0600 utc each day we give our position on the SSB radio to Taupo Maritime Radio in NZ, after which we've been chatting to various sailing friends with similar radios. It's been a highlight of the day. However the reception is getting scratchy, and we're definitely feeling like Captain Tom, losing contact slowly with Control. The distance now is over 3,000 nm to NZ, and even more to Hobart, where Jim and Isabel of Sonsie of Victoria, are currently moored.

Fresh vegetables and fruit are now of the basic kind. We finished off the cauliflower & corgettes (wish I had bought more of these, because they kept well), now down to cabbage, carrots, parsnip, turnip, and of course those vegetables that keep really well, potatoes, onions, pumpkin, sweet potatoes and squash. Just apples, oranges and lemons now. I go through all the above very carefully every second day, checking for any that might be turning rotten. The vacuum packed meat (whole pieces with no bones) of lamb, beef and venison is holding up very well, and we usually have some usually every second day. Yogurt and bread were made today. So, we are still eating well, and haven't had to turn to the tinned foods yet.

Colin here. Not a good morning but it turned out well in the end. Came on shift at 0600 to find the cooker lying at a ghastly angle and not a sign of life, like a drunk in an Aberdeen gutter. I looked for vital signs - nothing. It usually dances and swings in time with the boat, sometimes offering its comments on the size and shape of individual waves. The very crude aft gimbal on the ENO cooker had failed, the pin sawn through by the ss support bracket. Ana and I got the cooker on the saloon floor (not an easy task when healed over and punching into the seas), all tools out including the electric drill, and managed to fabricate a replacement from a bolt and a piece of ss tube. By lunchtime the cooker was again swinging gaily in time with the waves. We had a well earned cup of coffee - the first of the day.

On passage to Valdivia, Chile from Auckland NZ.

Day 24 Yet another calm and sunny dawn. No one around but us. The birds have gone.

We have been motoring quite a lot over the last 2 days trying to get in front of a tropical depression which is coming down from the North. If we get in front of it and are enough to the east of its track we should miss the worst of the gales, rain and thunder storms which surround it. Happily we have now crossed its projected track and the engine is having a well earned rest. We should continue to get good passage making winds if we can maintain an average of 6.5 knots. Running the engine has also allowed us to make water and the tanks are again full. The water maker draws 25 amps so we only tend to use it when we are running the engine. We also turn the fridge to its coldest setting and make sure all the rechargeable devices and batteries are fully charged.

The wind came in from the North about lunchtime and we have been slipping along over a smooth sea under full sail. Lucas and I have managed two sights each today and worked out positions. We are managing to get within a few miles of our true position, results we feel quite pleased with and which would be accurate enough for an ocean passage, but not for navigating between reefs and islands.

On passage to Valdivia, Chile from Auckland NZ.

Day 23 Another calm day. More motoring.

In this passage I have sometimes had a curious feeling that we are moving along corridors rather than crossing a broad 2 dimensional ocean. It may be the way my mind copes with the enormity of the South Pacific, makes it manageable. It is enhanced by the fact that we have meeting points, waypoints I guess, where we have to be by a certain time to connect with a weather system or, perhaps, avoid one. At the moment I feel we are in a fairy tight west-east corridor. Any diversion from this will result in us positioning ourselves poorly for the tropical depression which is heading SE towards us. We must also make a certain speed along this corridor as we want the depression to pass behind us. When we sailed from Galapagos to Marquesas in 2013 we just sat in the SE trades for 3 weeks and there were no particular turning points or meeting points with any weather systems. We downloaded the GRIBS (weather data) but it was mainly for information rather than causing us to take action. How different this is with constantly moving systems, a moving minefield through which we must find our safe corridor.

Today was a sextant day. Lucas and I spent 10 minutes each taking sights, and then a further 3 hours working out one position line! I hope we'll get quicker with the next one. Why do we bother, you (and Ana) ask! I guess it's just another puzzle to be solved. But it certainly makes us appreciate the skill of the great navigators, and we think with awe, of Shackleton and Worsley navigating the little James Caird across the storms of the South Atlantic from Elephant Island to South Georgia. Men were a different breed in those days. It also make us appreciate the GPS so, so much.

On passage to Valdivia, Chile from Auckland NZ.

Day 22 Calm sea and sunny skies today, which was very welcome after a couple of rocky rolly days. With the engine and water maker running, we took advantage of the lull, having our first showers since we left, laundry done by hand, bedding aired, linen changed, and a good clean of Ithaka. Domestic bliss! As we are almost half way to Chile, this couldn't of happened at a better time. Later, a relaxed picnic lunch in the cockpit.

When the wind returned we tried our 'new to us' spinnaker, sourced in Auckland. Unfortunately we found it needs modification for it to be flown properly on Ithaka. Another job for the sewing machine and Colin, when back on land.

"Spanish for Cruisers" is being regularly used. Not only by Colin and I, but by Lucas, who is keen to learn the English words for technical sailing parts. (Thanks, Rod and Mary of Sheer Tenacity, who gave us your copy.)

On passage to Valdivia, Chile from Auckland NZ.

This is Lucas, breaking the silence: Started the day with my 0300 shift. Colin and I worked to try and experiment with different configurations of yankee-staysail to increase Ithaka's upwind performance. After Colin went down below I continued playing with the headsail and finally handed the wheel over to Ana, forgetting to undo my "experimental" sail configuration.

Went down below, and inspired by my mother's birthday decided to prepare some traditional Argentine dinner to celebrate on her behalf. So there I was, kneading dough and hand-mincing beef for Argentinian empanadas at 9 in the morning inside Ithaka beating over 25 knot winds and 3 meters waves like a rodeo bull.

Nonetheless, the day progressed quite pleasantly despite the occasional waves that would rush into the companionway every time we left it open, keeping the galley's floor nice and clean (and salty) after my morning cooking.

Later, after our radio session, we had a lovely Argentinian dinner, listening to Uruguayan folklore and drinking Australian wine. Cheered for my mother's birthday and for our sustained and smooth progress so far; soon to be sailing right in the middle of the Pacific.

(La version traducida al Español Rio Platense se hara disponible bajo solicitud individual)

On passage to Valdivia, Chile from Auckland NZ.

MAJOR TOM TO GROUND CONTROL Night watch 0000 to 0300. Bumping and crashing again, hard on the wind on starboard tack. She's trying hard to head east but only making 70degrees. Most of a wave just landed in the cockpit. Luckily I'm inside typing this.

I THINK MY SPACESHIP KNOWS THE WAY TO GO.

As days go yesterday was not too good. Massive flooding in Aberdeenshire. David Bowie no longer with us.

And on Ithaka, the beautiful, steady industrial whine of the wind generator replaced by the untethered swish, swishing of an unloaded propellor...... "freewheeling".

Lucas: "its gone open circuit".

He goes off into the aft locker. Disconnects the wires from the regulator and we both listen for an increase in propellor speed....no change.

Lucas: "its gone open circuit".

He shorts the wires together from the generator. We both listen hoping the load created by the direct short will slow the untethered demon.....no change......no connection. Bugger.

Both of us: "It's gone open circuit".

YOUR CIRCUITS DEAD THERE'S SOMETHING WRONG Lucas starts talking about a "quiet day" when we can disconnect and remove the unit, with its pole, from its position on the top of the rear gantry. Hmmm. It'll have to be a very quiet day. I catch the tail fin of the unit with the boathook, catching it unawares when its looking the other way, and turn it sideways. The demonic swishing ceases, at rest, in peace, waiting for a very quiet day.

On the plus side ....well everything else really. Life's pretty good in the middle of the Pacific. The boat's holding together well.

FLOATING IN A TIN CAN. The crew are happy, seasickness a distant memory. What a privilege to be back here again after 38 years absence. And so nice to receive the comments on YIT and to speak to some of you on the SSB radio in the evening. Just amazing how far these radio waves go.

PLANET EARTH IS BLUE AND THERE'S NOTHING I CAN DO WITH APOLOGIES TO, AND IN MEMORY OF, DAVID BOWIE.

On passage to Valdivia, Chile from Auckland NZ. Day 19. Ana here, again. A day of apprehension. We have been expecting a frontal system with winds in the high 30s to pass over us from the NW, so have been looking over our shoulder all day long, ready to reef down at a moments notice. Happily we've heard tonight from Bruce, our weather advisor, we have outrun the thing.

After so many days at sea, we've formed a good working team. We take turns of a shift where we sail the boat, and do what is necessary to keep the boat moving eastward, in a safe manner. There are 3 x 4 hour shifts during the day, starting at 6am, and 4 x 3 hour shifts from 6pm. However this all goes to pot if the weather and sea state are such that the wind or auto pilot can't cope, and we need to hand steer.

Not a lot to see out here. The only living thing we saw today was a Sooty Shearwater, which has taken to circle the boat intermittently through the day. Silent, with the agility of a fighter plane.

Thank you so much to those that have sent messages. It means a great deal to us to hear from you.

On passage to Valdivia, Chile from Auckland NZ. Day 18. Ana here. I'm in a particularly buoyant (pardon the pun) mood. This is because today I washed my hair. The second time since we left NZ. I have a theory that hair doesn't get any dirtier after it reaches a certain stage. However I'm reluctant to test this theory for the complete voyage. Other reasons to be cheerful: 1) the sun shone, the sea sparkled, and we had 23 knots of wind behind us; 2) the water maker did it's job and we now have full water tanks; 3) the wind generator is doing a great job, and remains silent and vibration free (thank you, Roger!!); 4)Colin and Lucas did not have the boat's whole tool kit out today, just some of it.

On passage to Valdivia, Chile from Auckland NZ.

We've worked our way north again to allow two successive fronts to pass to our south while we maintain not-too-strong westerly winds. So we skirt the highs and we skirt the lows, a bit like traversing an uneven landscape maintaining a steady altitude and avoiding the big valleys and the high peaks. The only difference is that, in our case, both we and the landscape are moving relative to each other. So we are glad to have Bruce,the weatherman sitting in Perth, surrounded by all his data, models, satellite images, plotting our position and suggesting the strategy for the next few days.

We have chosen to take this longer route just near the 40th parallel rather than following the shorter great circle route. By doing so we will sail an extra 1000 miles but there will be no threat of ice and we hope we will be able to remain in reasonable wind and sea conditions which do not threaten the boat or sap the strength of our small crew. We sail the boat very conservatively, always with less sail then she could carry. We are a tortoise rather than a rabbit, slow steady progression to the east and we'll arrive when we arrive.

THere were a couple of milestones today. 1. We shared the last tomato. It was sliced with fresh basil from Lucas' garden.

2. We managed to send and receive our sailmail e mails via the Chile sailmail station. So it looks as if we will maintain our e mail coverage all the way. I was dreading a black hole near the middle of the passage where we would get no coverage.

Ana and Lucas in good spirits. Today Ana made fresh bread and pizza. THere's nothing better than coming down into the cabin and being greeted by the smell of bread cooking. Lucas is practicing his guitar, learning astro navigation, and teaching us Spanish.

On passage to Valdivia, Chile from Auckland NZ.

Monochrome morning....150 shades of grey, the bright contrast being the danbuoy flag which is fluttering gaily on the end of its pole. THen the birds came, dozens of them swooping all around us, not the majestic soaring albatross this time, much quicker, more aerobatics. We identified we were watching two different types of shearwater, one was Buller's Shearwater which, we read, breeds on the Poor Knights Islands just east of Whangarei, but which flies the South Pacific as far as Chile. The second type we havn't identified yet.

Spent the day rejigging our lifebuoy and all its accoutrements. Then I made a drogue to stop it blowing away from any poor MOB trying to reach it. Finally all reattached to the pushpit at 2000.

And since then Lucas and I have been sailing. Yes, pulling on wet ropes. We went from goosewinged with pole on starboard gybe to the same on port. What a carry on! All done now and we are relaxing with a cup of jasmine tea and Whittakers chocolate. Another day at the office! Heading a bit north again to try to avoid the worst of the next two fronts

On passage to Valdivia, Chile from Auckland NZ. Its the middle of the night here and the wind has dropped down to 10 knots on our starboard quarter. HOwever the waves are still rolling through causing the boat to slop about and knocking all the wind out of he sails. We are expecting the high to move through to the north of us tomorrow and then we'll have another day or so to get north so we are on the top of the next low pressure system. Had freshly baked bread for lunch. The 3 of us ate a whole loaf! Lucas practicing his astro navigation today. He did a meridian passage (noon sight) and it was within 0.5 of a mile of our lat. Good start. WE'll move onto morning and afternoon sights tomorrow.

On passage to Valdivia, Chile from Auckland NZ. The effects of the cold front lasted all day yesterday. We had 25 knots gusting 30 until early evening when it began to moderate. The seas were only 3 m but very short and confused. This made for an uncomfortable ride but worse, meant that neither the hydraulic autopilot, nor the windpilot could help us and we resorted to hand steering. This is where Lucas came into his own with an amazing 6 hour stint on the wheel in the morning while Ana and I recovered from our disturbed nights. He has also developed a relationship with the windpilot and managed to coax her out of her hissy fit yesterday evening so at least she is on side again. The seascape yesterday was quite dramatic. Sunny with loads of bubbling cumulus clouds, deep blue heaving sea with breaking white caps, Ithaka surfing, bumping, crashing through it all, sending spray high into the air and often back on to the unfortunate helmsman. For a brief few minutes a large albatross (Royal or Wandering -not sure) soared into our patch of ocean, his massive wing rigid, riding the updraft on the waves, banking and swooping, perfectly tuned, silent. Compare his smooth effortless ocean transit with our own lurching, creaking, effort. I hope he will grant us another visit.

I was unable to send e mails by SSB radio yesterday, this because we are moving away from the strong Australian shore station and are not yet in range of Chile. The radio propagation is better at night so from now on we will update YIT just after our local midnight. The good news was that we were forced to test the Sat Phone, our reserve, which worked well.

On passage to Valdivia, Chile from Auckland NZ. PLeasant day yesterday and good to catch up with Kiapa and Sel Citron as well as Maunie and Obsession in the evening. We will soon know how far our SSBs will stretch.

Front came through just after midnight so we are now reaching with 2 x reefed main and a scrap of staysail in 25 - 30 knots. Sea still building but its not forecast to last more than a few hours and then we are expecting a high pressure to move in for a day or so. I should probably introduce you to our 4th crew member as he is taking a big part in this passage. He is Bruce Buckley, the weatherman. We have never met but we are in e mail contact twice daily. He sits in Perth, West Australia, and guides us between the highs and the lows, the gales and the calms. Thats why I know it was a front that came through just after midnight! SOrry about the glitch in yesteday's position. I gather we did an amazing day's run.

On passage to Valdivia, Chile from Auckland NZ. Ana here, while Colin and Lucas slumber. We're over 1,000 miles from land, and still sight birds. In fact, we've seen more sea birds than on any other voyage, including the Chatham and Royal Albatrosses and Sooty Shearwater. All skimming effortlessly above the water line. Beautiful. A surprise sighting was a while tailed tropical bird, well south off its course. Doh! Cranium (thank you, S/V Mournie of Ardwell) and chess competition played after the sea swell eased last night. Joint victory for Colin and Lucas in Doh! Cranium, and age overcame beauty in the chess. Next rounds today, conditions allowing.

On passage to Valdivia, Chile from Auckland NZ. Fast day yesterday reaching in 20 knots. Wind increased even more early this morning so we are triple reefed and staysail in preparation for the front which is forecast to arrive at 0700 Crew in good spirits. Spanish lessons every lunchtime but we are not very good students and our memories are appalling.

On passage to Valdivia, Chile from Auckland NZ. Light winds yesterday and slow progress, close hauled on port tack all day. Allowed us to finish off a few outstanding tasks from Auckland including replacement of the NO1 reef line and fitting the leecloth on our bunk, which we may well need later today. Wind now in the NW and we are reaching at 7 - 8 knots. Wind will increase all day and we expect a front with rain and loads of wind tonight.

Yesterday was Banana Day. Ana announced it with a sign above the cooker. This day always occurs some 10 days into a passage and is the day when you must eat the remaining bananas. We did quite well mainly thanks to a banana cake but I see a few brown coloured specimens still lurking in a bowl - breakfast!

On passage to Valdivia, Chile from Auckland NZ. Light winds all yesterday and overnight making for slow but very comfortable progress. Also allows the crew to show off their cordon bleu skills in the galley. The fresh food is still very fresh - crunchy apples and carrots, sweet chilled pineapple and, last night some delicious pork steaks. Lucas made his own mayonaise recipe, Ana baked bread and even the skipper managed to get in the galley to cook the evening meal. Lucas' herb garden is beginning to spread around his cabin thanks to some good Ponsonby loam. (Thanks John). Cathy, alas your moist Christmas cake is no more, we saw off the last of it yesterday.

I imagine our course looks rather a slalom which indeed it is. Yesterday the wind was from the ESE so we were heading NE. It continued to back, ahead of the next front, so just after midnight we tacked onto port. Suddenly all the little safe corners where you put things like books and I-pads became unsafe and today we will learn how to live leaning the other way. Those of you with catamarans won't understand this I know! Rubic continues to beat me - not much progress there. Ana has pinched my new book (she often does this). It's a present from Kiapa and it had her snorting and chuckling all afternoon. The unlikely voyage of Jack de Crow.

On passage to Valdivia, Chile from Auckland NZ. Beautiful sailing yesterday across the bluest ocean under the bluest sky, Ithaka revelling in the flat conditions and 15 knots of wind. The wind has died down slightly overnight and begun to shift further east as a high pressure passes to the south of us. This will force us slightly north which will help to align us ready for the next front due in a couple of days. Started to read our Christmas present to each other, Patagonia and Tierra del Fuego Nautical Guide. There is an anonymous quote in the preface which caught my eye, a New Year thought, "the earth is not inherited from the fathers, but borrowed from the children". May we leave but a clean and quiet wake through 2016.

On passage to Valdivia, Chile from Auckland NZ. Steady but slow progress yesterday after an initial period of drizzly rain courtesy of a weak cold front. Then the sun came out and we managed to maintain 5 knots in the very light winds through the afternoon and night. Sadly the high pressure now has us in its airless embrace and forward progress has ceased. However the restless ocean still shakes us back and forth and there is much banging and crashing in the rigging. So today may be one for maintenance, baking and charging the batteries. The exact time of the arrival of 2016 on Ithaka is getting some discussion. We may be near enough the date line to warrant two (new years)! All the best for 2016 to you all.