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Not Swimmingly Good Suva, June 8 David Things haven't been going swimmingly well lately. For a start there's not much chance of a swim what with rusting Chinese fishing ships crowding the bay and a thin oil slick everywhere. No swim appeal to speak of. The rain was great while we needed the water and, to be fair, there's more sun than rain now. But Suva is wet, with showers several times a day. It quickly becomes sticky and close when we shut up the boat to avoid the weather.
Yesterday Janet pushed herself up off her knees where she had been for about a week when she wasn't sitting on the loo. Diarrhea. Shellfish. Awful.
Not to be outdone I matched her with a bout of urinary tract infection. In hind sight there were probably better ways I could have garnered sympathy but, you pays your money. I was at the very early stages, thinking that there seemed to be something not quite the same about peeing when, on the yacht, Midnight Sun, apropos of nothing at all John told us a story about playing nurse to a doctor friend who was called to the bedside of a seriously ill man on a remote Fiji island. They were told he hadn't pissed in over a week. He was clearly in extreme pain. The medical system had refused to evacuate him. "He's seventy two. A good innings." The doctor, with John's help, set about inserting a catheter which prompted first embarrassment and confusion and then immediate relief along with a quantity of seriously disgusting black fluid. The man recovered. I, on the other hand, over identified with the hapless patient and immediately began taking my fledgling symptoms more seriously. Now that we're both, apparently, on the up and up, I don't think we realised how much these conditions knocked us around nor how much the passage took out of us. The few other sailors we've spoken with all emphasise the long passage-recovery time. Perhaps we underestimated this as we rocked directly into re-provisioning, re-fueling, re-watering and exploring. Then there's the ugly scar along our topsides where the dinghy, safely hoisted out of the water, rested. Until it took on enough rain water to force the bow back into the sea where it bobbed gently up and down much of the night just below the fenders that were supposed to keep the dinghy gunnel away from our paint work. I pointed out this sad discovery to our neighbor, Lester. "You could always take the bung out." The bung. I had noticed this bung. I had, from time to time, wondered when I'd ever have reason to remove the bung. Now I know. What a useful device. Still, there's the scar to repair. Bugger! But that's not all. Before leaving NZ I installed two extra flexible water tanks and expanded our rainwater catching capacity to make us less dependent on water from ashore. On the fourth day of our passage I discovered ninety litres of sparkling fresh water in our bilge and, you guessed it, one of the new tanks empty. The other day I dismantled the space and removed the tank thinking I had probably failed to tighten the outlet hose properly. But no, that part was fine. It was the PVC bladder which had a 6 m split in it. How this could have happened is not apparent which is somewhat disconcerting. Today I repaired the split. Cross your fingers it holds and no others appear.
So, like I say, things haven't been going swimmingly well so far. Except that we're not ill anymore and were here which is pretty cool.

Passage log 1 Suva 18 07.402s 178 25.467e Janet May 28, 2015 Pics: We're anchored in Suva Harbour. It's been a week since we arrived and the memory of the trip up here is rapidly becoming a distant dream. Perhaps you read the updates we sent along the way but here is a little more of the passage story.
*** We very nearly didn't get away.
Opua On Thursday May 7 we decided we were leaving in two days, Saturday 9th.
Despite our intention to be all relaxed and in order before we left, we were still finishing our boat preparations, not just till cast off but well out into the ocean.
Even with years of preparation for this trip, a lot of tasks could only be done in the last few days before departure, and many only on the day.
On the Saturday we tied up at the fuel wharf at Opua to do our final fuel and watering up for the trip. I walked over to Customs to give them our outward clearance forms and on the way remembered I was supposed to return a book for David. When I got back the boat to collect it David was pumping fuel into the aft tank. This necessitated removing the companionway stairs onto the cabin.
Being in a rush I didn't register this critical detail. Racing into the cabin I stepped into thin air and fell three feet. I was lucky I didn't break a leg but I did seriously wrench my shoulder rendering myself a pretty useless crew-member. I was in shock and just wanted to lie down and cry and but we had to keep moving and get off the fuel dock. Gritting my teeth I did all the official stuff for leaving the country and we cast off making final phone calls, and still battening things down as we raised the sails.
*** Day 1 Saturday May 9 35 18.915s 174 07.307e The day brought sunny weather and flat seas as we motored out of the Bay of Islands. It's a weird feeling sailing out to sea and not turning left or right along the coast at the entrance to the bay, just heading out into nothingness. 15 knots of wind filled our sails, an unexpected pleasure. We'd expected to motor for several days to get well away from New Zealand in time to avoid a front coming across the Tasman Sea.
1900 - checked in with Taupo Maritime Radio. Each day we radioed them our position and course so that someone in the world knew exactly where we were.
If they didn't hear from us for a while they would activate rescue procedures.
Alas as night came on despite fair winds, moderate seas, and a glorious milky way overhead, I was miserably seasick.
Distance 97 nautical miles. Didn't quite make our two degrees. Opua is at 35 degrees south and Fiji 18 degrees. There are 60 nautical miles (NM) in a degree.
Travelling at five to six knots we estimated we could cover 120 NM or two degrees a day.
*** Day 2 Sunday May 10, 34 01.792s 175 29.725e From journal "Bit grim so far. Ate an apple. Feel pretty seedy, like I was doing some serious partying last night. I wish. Came on watch and the wind and waves kept overpowering the autopilot and backing the sails. Ended up crash jibing.
David and Piet came and reefed." Then the wind died out.
Motored all night.
Made 114 miles. That's better progress.
*** Day 3 Monday May 11, 32 02.612s 176 11.148e Life has become very simple. It's blue and white, interspersed with grey. The view is just endless sea, sky and clouds. Life's now all about eating, sleeping, and being on watch. We motored and motored, and motored. We constantly calculated fuel levels. We don't have enough diesel to motor all the way to Fiji so have to be judicious about how often we use the engine.
Each morning at 0700 we tuned into Gulf Harbour Radio, checked in, and listened for the weather for our position. We could also track the progress of the dozen or so other boats on passage.
A little piece of gingham fabric off the top of a jam jar was floating around the galley. I transformed it into a testicle with a bit of stuffing and a rubber band and announced to the guys that this would be awarded daily for achievements, both good and foolish. I got given one belatedly for stepping to thin air on day one.
David got the days Great Gingham Gonad Award (GGG) for emptying the reeking portaloo at 4am. This unappealing task got overlooked as we exited the Bay of Islands.
Had my first enjoyable nightwatch. The first two nights I was constantly fending off sleep or throwing up. Reflected on how much easier this trip was than the one to Tonga. I'm eating a modest amount but Piet and David fully enjoying the fine fare from the freezer.
140NM, excellent progress *** Day 4 Tuesday May 12, 30 06.087s 177 40.369e 40 knot squall. Put second reef in. Squalls are very small patches of dark cloud with rain and high winds under them. When they hit the boat the wind rises suddenly and sail area has to be reduced very quickly. Then in minutes it has gone again, sun out, and gentle breeze resumed.
Felt a lot better that day, I even cooked lunch.
Piet got GGG for figuring out that we didn't have a transmit frequency tuned in for our weather channel. We'd only been able to receive Gulf Harbour Radio but not talk to them.
Saw flying fish, wings flapping as they bounced over the waves.
David and Piet are practicing being sailors of old and using the sextants to take sunsights. We could end up in Africa.
132NM today. Very good.
*** Day 5 Wed May 13, 27 58.261s 178 27.718e You may notice our longitude number is increasing. Minerva Reef, our first stop, is just across the dateline.
Discovered bilge full of water. In New Zealand David had installed two new flexible water tanks in the bow. One of them had leaked 90 litres into the bilge.
Very disappointing about the tank and the water loss, but at least it wasn't salt water which would have meant a leak somewhere in the hull (later David found a very small tear in the tank).
Saw green flash at sunset. It's a very rare sight you can only see it on a completely clear horizon.
Abandoned wet weather gear. Felt good.
Distance made good 90NM. 'Distance made good' means miles covered towards our destination as opposed to actual miles sailed. When we are tacking towards a destination we cover a lot more ocean.
*** Day 6 Thurs May 14, 26 22.100s 179 41.577e Beautiful day, long lazy swell, sailed along at four knots. Didn't feel sick or tired for a while. Slowed down so we wouldn't get to Minerva before dawn.
David got the gonad award for scrubbing the deck after some foul creature deposited black excrement all over his newly painted deck.
Got the worst watch. We rotate them each day. I was on 6-9 and 3-6, which feels like two night watches. It is two night watches! But the thought of Minerva tomorrow kept me going.
Piet was relentlessly cheerful despite the tiredness. He asked where his montblanc was. Prior to the journey I emailed him and asked him if he wanted any particular foods for the journey and he sent this picture. (see dessert pic) Distance 88NM. Lots of tacking.
*** Day 7 Fri May 15, 25 00.468s 179 48.155e Crossed the dateline today. Doesn't matter to us though, we struggled to remember what day it was or how many days we'd been at sea. With the combination of lack of sleep and no external references we lost our sense of time.
Piet got GGG for putting East instead of West in the position in the log when we crossed.
Saw an albatross flying along at sea level, its huge winds almost touching the waves.
At dawn Minerva hove into view. It is a flat round reef with an entrance on the west side. First I saw waves crashing and a black post sticking up, then the masts of several boats. What a wonderful sight.
Distance 75NM ***

We had a delightful anchorage in Lelepa island, crystal clear water, white sand beach, snorkeling the reefs. We would have loved to stay longer, but decided to take advantage of the light winds for rounding Devils Point. We were glad we did - it was a dream ride - a complete contrast to our last experience of this notorious headland. Yesterday in Port Vila we spotted some familiar boats from Gulf Harbour. Dreamtime, Red Herring II, Rireana. We are now in Mele Bay for a few days. Swimming, snorkeling and relaxing. Caught up with Marc and Constance last night and had dinner at Paradise Cove. A fabulous setting and a wonderful meal! The 71ft yacht they used to have and sold in Gulf Harbour was called Chasse Spleen. They still talk about their 7 years of cruising with a wistful look in their eyes, though they have been land based for two years now.
Over the last month we have really appreciated the various upgrades we attended to during the summer in NZ. Many items were repaired, maintained and improved of course, but three things have made a huge difference to our cruising experience. The first is the water maker. Being able to make our own fresh water has enabled us to go to remote places without having to worry about the quality of local water supplies. We can even wash our dishes and ourselves in fresh water instead of salt water now. Yay! The second thing that has made a real difference is the solar panels. Our need for solar power was highlighted when we had no motor on the way back to NZ, but now that we have solar, we are really noticing a difference to our everyday cruising. We no longer need to run the motor to keep the batteries topped up. The solar power keeps up with running all the usual electrics on board, including the extra electric fridge we installed (which has also been exceptionally useful). The third upgrade that has made a difference to our cruising, is not an upgrade to the boat, but an upgrade to Heather! Last year, Heather struggled to spot marker buoys, small canoes, and various landmarks. Karl would point out reefs and potential hazards long before they came into Heathers field of vision. In February, Heather had a cataract operation which has removed the misty blob in front of her left eye and now she can spot tiny objects from miles away! It is a refreshing change to be able to see where you are going.
The day is warming up again, so time for another swim!

We really enjoyed our time in the Maskelyne islands, calm clear water, swimming, snorkeling, exploring deserted islands - fabulous. More seeds were delivered, to locals from surrounding islands who came by in dug out canoe to see us. Next we hopped across to Epi island and stayed a couple of nights in Lamen bay. For those who would like to see where this is, the GPS position is: 16 35.754S 168 09.769E Lamen Bay is home to sea turtles and dugongs! We were lucky enough to encounter these amazing creatures. We saw a few sea turtles grazing on sea grass while we were snorkeleing and we got reasonably close to them. We were able to dive down while snorkeling and swim along side them - but the turtles made sure we were just out of reach! Later, as we sat in the cockpit soaking up the sun and enjoying the scenery, a couple of dugongs surfaced near the boat. Also known as sea cows, these animals are similar in size and shape to seals, but they have a large snout that they use like a vacuum cleaner to gather sea grass from the ocean floor. In the afternoons they surface with a burst of air and then a lazy loop, to return to the bottom again. Nice to see! Lamen bay is also home to an extended village of over 500 people, plus a full boarding school with 200 teenagers attending high school. The kids come from all over the island of Epi and also from other surrounding islands to attend. We learned that kids who do not get good marks at primary school will often just remain in the village to help with fishing and cooking and farming. Kids who do well at primary school will be sent to high school and those that do well at high school will have the chance to go further. Many of the ones that have the aptitude and attitude to succeed at school will move away from the village and begin a whole new life as they map out a career in Efate or perhaps overseas.
We visited the school and met Judy, the deputy Principal, who was in charge that day, along with key members of staff. They were very excited to get vegetable seeds from us as they have a science program in the school where the children learn to grow vegetables - and they needed seeds for this program. Seeds will also be distributed to the community from here too, so everyone will benefit. Cyclone Pam has caused some damage here, high winds and flooding wiped out fruit and vegetable crops, but the buildings here are more substantial and did not suffer too much. Trying to keep 200 teenagers in line probably creates a bigger challenge! We met Joseph, the local baker, and had a tour of his bakery. Wood fires are used to heat a kiln like structure to form an outdoor oven. Another hut has a bench where the dough is kneaded by hand. Stacks of loaf tins tower precariously beside the ovens. Joseph explained his labour intensive process. He has been making bread every day for the village since 1976. The day we visited he had made 50 loaves, and some days he makes more. Amazingly, for such crude apparatus and no real temperature control, each loaf was perfect! We purchased a couple of loaves, fresh white fluffy bread, still warm from the oven. The outside an even golden brown on all sides - more evenly cooked than what we can make in our gas oven on the boat! We have now been away from NZ for one month - the first month has flown by!! Up until a few days agao, however, we had not caught any fish. Last year in Tonga and Fiji we were feasting on Mahimahi and Tuna 3 or 4 times per week. In fact, we got so used to catching 90cm Mahimahi and 60cm tuna that we purchased a large landing net and a 1m long cool box to put the catch in for this trip. The large cool box has been sitting waiting and the net has been at the ready for the last month, but without fish, they have remained bright and shiny and new. Our luck changed a few days ago and we and our first catch. A small tuna, not much bigger than the lure we had out! It did not need the landing net and would very likely fit into a teapot, so we didn't need the coolbox! (Don't worry Sarah, we didn't actually use the teapot!) But this little tuna did not go to waste - Karl prepared it on the BBQ while Heather fried up some potatoes - fish and chips for dinner! Today we caught two more of these l ittle tuna. A good size for the BBQ and very tasty! We hope to have use for the landing net and the large coolbox in coming days.
Last night we caught up with Paul and Monique, a Dutch couple from a yacht called "Full Circle", aptly named as they plan to circumnavigate the globe. After a few drinks on board Aradonna we invited them to stay for dinner and had a fun evening together. Luckily we were not relying on fish for dinner last night! Tomorrow we will round Devils Point again to get back into Port Vila. In the light winds that are forecast it should be a smooth ride compared to our first experience. Fingers crossed.